Cleo Melissa: problem solved!
I thought my 34DD Cleo Melissa fit me fine (other than my current need for 32 bands), but despite the fact that it neither wrinkled nor caused quadboob, it gave me such an odd, flattened-toward-the-center shape that I almost never wore it. A real shame, since because of the adorable pattern I'd bought the matching panties, which I almost never do. So on a whim I purchased a 32F from the Nordstrom.com half-yearly sale (free shipping and returns, so no risk).
Oh, so that's how the Melissa is supposed to fit: projecting everything forward, but not squashing flat the outer halves of my boobs! The cups were too small in the 34DD all along. Looks like 32F is right for me in Cleo. (My 32E Juna is quite wearable, but in 32F it would be perfect.)
I don't even know what's going on with my boobs these days, between a bit of weight loss and a bit of remigration into the tops. A slight change is apparent when they're bare, but in a bra it's very clear that things are not as they were before I bought that first Panache Melody (sadly riding up even on the tightest hooks now) back in November.
Filed under Bra sizing and fit