Mini Corset Guide for BtB

Good day my favorite community on the interwebs!
I have been an avid corset lover and wearer for years before I ever found out about well fitting bras and became a bra aficionado. I now find myself recommending them all the time for a variety of reasons; support, back pain and posture being some of the main reasons. There is a very real connection between and ancient form a bust support and our modern day bra. So, I've decided to write a mini corset guide for all those interested. I'll also have a nice list of resources at the bottom of the guide. There will be an asterisk next to items connected to a resource. I've capitalized the different sections in case you just want to learn about something in specific.
INTRO:
Corset fitting is even more of an unknown in our today world than even proper fitting bras! And we all know how few women know about finding out their "true size" and finding a proper fit for their bra. Most of what is known is the "boudoir"options that are actually bustiers or plastic boned cylinders of fabric (basques or "bodies") that are sold by dress size or waist size. And then we have "waist trainers*" or "waist cinchers." Horrible tubes of non-breathable fabrics (the OG was latex) that are typically boned with cheap plastic and close with a hook and eye at the front. These items are designed to "make you sweat off the inches." These items are not good for you on so many levels it's sorta ridiculous. Sweating in a non-breathable fabric can cause so many health problems, I don't even want to go into them all. And on top of that, the articles themselves have no shape, so even if you do wear them long enough (without some how suffering from health problems) so that they some how "mold your fat." Your shape would then be straight up and down, and I'm pretty sure the point was to make your waist smaller, not make you look like a pre-teen.
Generally speaking, if it is on Amazon, an adult store, a sports wear shop, or a lingerie shop, it's likely not an actual corset.
ABBREVIATIONS:
OTR = off the rack., RTW = ready to wear.
Both which simply mean that they manufactured (much like regular clothes) and sold to the consumer using waist size. They have predetermined measurements and actual/good corset manufacturers will provide you with a 'size chart' or give you a rib spring and hip spring.
RS = rib spring, HS = hip spring.
A RS represents the difference (typically in inches) between the waist size and ribs that the corset can accommodate. A HS is the difference between waist size and hip size.
For example: I have a size 24 corset. That corset has a closed inside waist measurement of 24 inches. The RS of the corset is 6-8 inches. My size 24 corset can accommodate a rib size/measurement of 30-32 inch. The HS of the corset is 10-12 inches. My size 24 corset can accommodate a hip size/measurement of 34-36 inches.
OB = overbust, UB = underbust.
M2M = made to measure
WHAT IS A CORSET?
A corset is a steel boned (or now-a-days the germans have created this amazing plastic boning that is a synthetic whale baleen*), structured garment, that closes with lacing in the back.Typically they use a mix of flat steel bones* and spiral steel bones*, though I have seen corsets that use one or the either. They can close in the front with a busk*, lacing, a heavy duty zipper (uncommon for OTR/RTW) or they can have no front opening and only lace shut in the back (pull over the head style). They will NEVER close with eye and hooks. These are too weak to actually take the tension of a well fitted corset. They are made with fabrics that have no stretch. In today's world we are used to having all of our fabrics with some bit of stretch to it which makes fitting for a corset all that more trickier because our society is not used to clothing with negative ease.
WHAT TYPES OR CORSETS ARE THERE?
Well, there are no 'types', but there are many styles and silhouette of corsets.
Here are the most common styles of corsets: overbust, underbust, longlines, and stays*/vest style corsets.
Overbust Styles: classic, demi, sweetheart, cupped, plunge and vest.
Underbust Styles: classic, cincher, baby, and ribbon (which can also be the first 3 UB styles).
All corsets can be made into Longlines, they just simply come down lower on the body. The only exception being stays. Which were simply boned bodices that stopped at the waist.
OB corsets can be very unique as you can custom create almost any sort of top style that you desire, whether it be a halter style or something crazy creative, it is likely possible. Just not common. They can also have high backs or low backs and do not necessarily have to go around the body in a straight line. All of these styles can also be altered at the top or bottom so that the line can be straight, rounded, and pointed are the most common shapes for the top and bottom lines of the corset to be offered.*
Here are the most common silhouette's of the corset styles;
U-SHAPE/GENTLE- a very slim, modern shape without much definition to the waist. This is a common body shape of today's women. Very small ratios between waist/rib and waist/hip.This is also the most commonly available corset.
HOURGLASS - This is what is most thought of with corsets. A very Morticia Adams shape, with a slightly rounded rip and hip and a nicely defined waist.
V-SHAPE/CONICAL: This is the typical shape of a stay and also the shape that many men go for when purchasing a corset. It has straight lines going from the rib to the waist. Can be combined with rounded hip or use in any of the other shapes.
WASP Waist: Is often confused with an hourglass shape, but the wasp waist is very exaggerated. Extreme looking curves with a dramatically nipped in waist.
PIPESTEM: VERY uncommon. The waist is defined in a stem like way. You will have your rib dramatically nip into the waist, and the waist section of the corset can be anywhere from 1-?? inches long before coming back out to the hips. Experienced users only.*
RIBBON Style: Corsets are generally made of several vertical panel pieces, sometimes with bust & hip gores and are generally boned on the seams. Ribbon corsets on the other hand are made of horizontal pattern pieces that looks like wide strips of ribbon wrapping around the body. They can have some vertical pattern pieces and have very few bones.*
HOW DO I FIT THIS THING?
Now that I've gone over all the basics, here's the most important part of a well fitting corset.
1.When you find a corset you like the look you, look at how it fits the model. Is there an hourglass shaped gap in the back of the corset? A lacing gap at the back of a corset should ideally be a straight up and down gap. It can also be V shaped or an upside down V shaped. Bot which indicate either circumference was too small for the model. When the gap is straight, that will show you the most accurate view of the corsets shape. You know your own body shape better than anyone else, you generally want a corset close to your shape so that it fits you well. It can be difficult to waist train or even wear a corset that does not have a similar shape to your own.
2.Your next step is to find the size chart or RS & HS. If you can not find a chart with measurements or the HS & RS, this corset is likely one you don't want. If you really like it, you can email the manufacturer for this information. If the manufacturer does not respond or can not give you the information (or says something about dress sizes), don't purchase that corset. It likely will not fit, not be comfortable, & will likely not be made very well. It would also be ideal to find the vertical measurements of the corset (to see how it compares to yours) though these are not as common to find.
3. Find reviews and photo's, if you can. There is a very large corset community out there and if it is a good corset you can generally find some good reviews and photo's of the corset.
4. Do you care if the manufacturer has the same morals you do? Look this up too if it matters to you!
OK, so you now have all this information. You want the d**m corset. How to get a good idea if it will fit. As with anything, Measurements! Here are the measurements you will want to take.
VERTICAL MEASUREMENTS:
M1. Measure from your UB to your lap.
You want to know this length so that when you purchase the corset, you will know you can sit down in it without it jamming into your thighs. This can be a difficult measurement to take. You could sit down wrap a string around you body at your lap, make sure you wrap it tight enough so it will stay put. Then you can stand up and take the measurement instead of trying to do it while sitting down.
M1. Measure from your bust to you lap & Measure from where you want the OB corset to stop on your bust (this will depend on the amount of coverage you want) down to your lap.
M2. Measure from your UB to your waist.
Tie a string around your waist to make this easier. If you have a hard time finding your waist, bend towards the side while looking at a mirror. Your body will naturally crease at the waist. Or you can tie the string around your lower rib and it should roll down to your waist.
M3. Measure from waist to hip/lap.
M3a. Measure from waist to high hip (where your iliac crest is).
HORIZONTAL MEASUREMENTS:
Ma. Measure underbust.
I suggest doing this just as you would measure your waist or hip, snug enough for the tape measure no to fall, but not tight or very snug to the point where it indents the flesh. The corset does not stretch.
Ma1. Measure around your rib where you would like your corset to stop (UB).
Mb. Measure bust.
Mc. Measure waist.
Md. Measure hip (around lap from vertical measurement).
Md1. Measure high hip (around iliar crest).
Md2. Measure hip 3" from waist, 4" from waist, 5" from waist, and 6" from waist.
Now you compare your measurements to the ones you found. Do your measurements match? Generally they will tell you the full length of the corset, rib circumference and hip circumference. The good ones will tell you how many inches from waist these measurements are. I would say for a a well fitting corset you do not want to deviate more than an inch or two from your own. For example, if you measure 30 inch rib, you really don't want to purchase a corset with less than 28 inch rib, because you can have a bit of gap to accommodate it being a bit smaller. But you really don't want to have more than a 2 inch gap. Some women look for corsets that are up to 2 inches larger than rib because they know that their body squishes towards that area when laced in. If you do want a bit of breathing room but do not know how you squish, do not go more than an inch larger or you will end up with too large of gap to cover up. Same things goes for hips, but you can allow up to 2 inches larger as it is easier to cover up a bit of a gap around the hip as opposed to the rib. Most OTR corsets have about 4-5 inches from waist to UB and 5-6 inches from waist to hip (top & bottom edge of corset), if your measurements are similar to those, then the corset should fit you similarly to the model pictures.
Can't find anything that fits your measurements? Don't have money for M2M or bespoke? Then you may want to consider finding a corset that matches your hips or ribs and living with a V or upside down V gap in the back until you can afford an M2M/bespoke corset.
WHAT SIZE DO I PICK?
This one is simple. For beginners to corsets it is recommended to only reduce waist from 2-6 inches. How much waist reduction would you like? If you just want more support and less reduction, go with 0-2 inches. Just a light reduction? 2-4 inches. Want a good reduction and/or want to begin waist training? 4-6 inches. Take your waist measurement and subtract 0-6 inches from it, and that's the size you want. That's the size you want to compare your measurements to. DO NOT buy a corset that is 10 inches smaller than your waist because you don't want to "grow out" of your corset too quickly. You want the best fit you can get for you body and if you do end up wanting to get a one with a smaller waist, you will need a more curvier corset to compensate.
CUSTOM? BESPOKE? MADE TO MEASURE?
Bespoke - completely designed by you. You choose colors, fabrics, hardware, lacing, style & silhouette. Made to your measurements with mock-up services for fit check.
Custom - could be RTW or M2M, a custom corset is one where you pick colors and fabrics and can possibly choose slightly different lengths and styles..
Made to measure' - You choose a corset and you send your measurements and they make the corset to your measurements.
WHAT CORSETS DO I RECOMMEND?
I have mostly purchased M2M corsets and it was difficult for me to find corsets to match my measurements and still offer the waist size I was training too. But there are a few OTR/RTW that I fully support. Spoiler: the best are polish!
Restyle, www.restyle.pl
This brand has the widest hips available for OTR corsets. They are amazing and I have tried quite a few from the brand. They are also very cost efficient. Makes you wonder how rich EM has gotten off of us!
Innova Corsetry: www.innovacorsetry.com/
Mostly M2M & Bespoke, has sample sales from time to time and also offers lovely corset belts (that i liken more towards baby corsets) that are just to die for! His waist trainer corset was helped designed by myself when I was waist training. I got a 17" corset from him, that was when I was going on an 10+inch reduction.
Rebel Madness: www.rebelmadness.pl/
Great prices & corsets. Their etsy page: www.etsy.com/shop/RebelMadness
PaperCats Corsets: www.papercatscorsets.pl
Beautiful and decadent corsets.
Timeless Trends, www.timeless-trends.com/
Collaborated with the most beloved Lucy Corsetry to design their hourglass and gemini corsets!
Mystic City Corsets (MCC): www.mysticcitycorsets.com/ Etsy: www.etsy.com/shop/MystiCCityCorsets & Ebay shop: www.ebay.com/str/MystiC-City-Corsets-LLC
Reknown for their hip accommodating corsets and variety.
Isabella Corsetry: www.corsetmaker.com/shop/index.php
Amazing all around corsets with great measurements.
What Katie Did: https://www.whatkatiedid.com/collections/corsets
All around fantastic vintage brand. Find vintage repro here too!
And there are sooo many more. I always recommend beginning with a properly fitted OTR corset before going M2M/Custom/Bespoke.
ISN'T CORSETING PAINFUL AND UNHEALTHY?
Short answer is NO. Wearing a corset might be uncomfortable, but it should never be painful. If it is painful, take it off.
You need to season your corset after receiving it, you can't just throw it on and tie it shut. Not only does this seasoning* process mold the corset to your body, but it's more for seasoning the body to wearing a structured/restrictive garment. It is easiest to lace up with the help of someone else as they can easily see that corset is closing in a straight, parallel shape in the back. But can be done by ones self with some practice.
YES, you can breath, and breath just as you would every day. NO you can't take huge heaping lungfuls of air, but you only really do that when exercising, and you should not be wearing a structured garment during any sort of exercise. Especially when you are just getting to know your body in corset.
Don't be afraid on readjusting the corset while lacing in or throughout the day. Our bodies change throughout the day and it's important to make sure the corset is sitting at your skeletal waist when lacing down. No one wants or needs the waist of the corset putting all the reduction on their lower ribs. Sometimes your skeletal waist is much lower than your perceived waist , especially if you training down to a smaller and smaller waist.
You may experience some soreness from wearing a corset, especially at your muscles on the side of the torso/ribcage. In a corset they elongate and relax, which is not something that they are not used to doing. But you should never experience pain. If pain happens, take it off. Consult someone if necessary.
Do not try to go about closing your corset as quickly as possible, this can lead to damage and health problems.
Most of all, take your time! Enjoy seasoning and getting to know each corset and your body, take Solace* in this time instead of rushing it.
Though they have equivalated a corset to an external gastric sleeve , and I would definitely recommend over surgery any day. You simply won't be able to eat those huge portions that America has trained us to think we must eat. Instead you will actually feel when you are full and find yourself filling up more quickly. I also suggest sipping water (not guzzling) as filling the stomach with alot of liquid all at once can be uncomfortable. It certainly isn't good for you anyway, so it certainly assists with portion and general control over your food and drinking diet in general. You may want to avoid things that give you gas as it can be uncomfortable. I have yet to have this issue, but can easily see how it could make one feel uncomfortable. ENJOY! If you have any more questions I will be more than happy to answer as this is a VERY basic guide.
RESOURCES:
THE BEST RESOURCE: www.lucycorsetry.com (includes SEVERAL corset databases)
TBR; Lucy on Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/bishonenrancher/featured
Lucys Book Solaced: https://www.amazon.com/Solaced-Uplifting-Narratives-Corsets-Well-Being-ebook/dp/B01FCT4BW6
"Waist trainer": https://www.angelcurves.com/collections/waist-trainers
Busk: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Busk
Flat & Spiral Steel Bones: http://www.foundationsrevealed.com/index-of-articles/corsetry/fabricsmaterials/99-experimenting-with-steel-boning-by-jenni-hampshire
Synthetic Baleen: https://www.sewcurvy.com/blog/read_180375/plastic-boning-for-corsetry-and-costume-which-is-best-for-what.html
Stays: http://thedreamstress.com/2013/08/terminology-whats-the-difference-between-stays-jumps-a-corsets/
Corset Shapes: http://romantasyweb.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=R&Product_Code=Basic+Perimeter+Shapes
Pipestem corsets: https://lucycorsetry.com/research-corset-brands/guided-galleries/extreme-hourglass-pipestem-corsets/
Ribbon Corset: http://sidneyeileen.com/sewing-2/sewing/corset-making/basic-ribbon/#.W_tJROhKjIU
Seasoning your corset: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLd2O_kYv6eJylhxEXC6VYQj3yXbpzmKug
I fully recommend looking through most of these resources and not just looking at the linked page as they are very informational and this is a VERY basic guide. There are also a slew of resources and groups you can join on FB if you would like.

Mini Corset Guide for BtB » All bra adventures

Mini Corset Guide for BtB

Lucy's Corsetry