Wires too wide, full on bottom, and torso too short... what to do?
So the first bra I've ever had in the DD+ range is the Wacoal Awareness full coverage bra in a US 36H (the label says UK 36H too... wtf Wacoal that's not how sizing works) I'm sure I've needed one for a long time, just didn't know it. I was so excited to have something I wasn't falling out of... however, it feels too big. I did try a cup size smaller in the same style, and it was too small (center gore wouldn't rest flat, I had armpit fat) Also tried a band size bigger, cup size down, and it wouldn't sit right in the center either. I swooped and scooped. So I'm thinking it's just a problem of being full on the bottom and the wires being hugely wide. I also don't like how it flattens me out. The bra construction feels kind of silly, like why make the cups so dang wide and the band part so short? Of course you're going to end up with the cups wrapping around as part of the band if you do that! The edges of the cups rest over an inch back from where I'd like them, especially at the top. Like they're going behind my armpit. I'm "squishy" for band sizing, that is snugly I'm a 35-36", but really tight I can get down to 32", so I don't think having too small a band is the problem at a 36 band. It's been a couple weeks and I'm comfortably on the second set of hooks. This bra also has stiff wires, so some of it might be pulling the cups wider, but not easily.
Also I wouldn't exactly say I'm wrinkling, except for a bit in the side where my side fat/migrated tissue can't quite fill it. But when I lift my arms the tops of the cup wrinkle, because I'm only full on the bottom. My camera's broken, can't take pictures, but might get a new one for Christmas.
My other problem with wires is that I'm short, and every underwire bra I've had has poked me up in the armpit. I'm not talking about digging into the sides, I'm saying that when my arm is hanging down, the wire is too tall on the sides and pressing up into my armpit. In the Wacoal there's a gap in the wire casing and the wire ends an inch below the upper edge of the side, which is good because the sides are so high they fold over since they're basically choking my armpit.
So basically what I want is a bra with narrower wires, less coverage for very soft, full on bottom breasts, and short sides. Unfortunately it seems like to get short sides you need wider wires. Ugh. Also I had some migrated tissue which I'm working on getting back into the cups, so I guess for now wide is okay since it covers all that.
I've ordered an Elomi Abi and Goddess Rose Bandless because the Eveden representative I emailed about which bras were good for shorter torsos recommended them... but now from reviews I see that they have wide, torquable underwires, at least in the Abi. Also ordered a Panache Tango plunge because it was cheap, but of course I now see they too have wide underwires. They're supposed to be here next week, so we'll see about whether the 36FFs are okay, but I wish I knew what I should be looking for.
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endless
I'm on the same quest so I can't really offer much advice. I also got fitted into a Wacoal when I started this journey and thought I was happy. BUT, I am a 32G (US) and it was a 36DD! (this was a couple years after being told I was a 38B!!) I have since tried on many a Wacoal and for me, they hold my breasts in place pretty well--but I want them up, not in place! Like you, I am short and most bras poke me in the armpit. I stumbled across a couple of Fantasie 32G (US and UK) in England and snapped them up--I have very limited shopping time alas. The Lizbeth has ended up becoming my go-to bra. I had to modify it a tad to get the straps from slipping.
I also got a Fantasie Elodie which pokes me in the armpits. Do you have sloping/narrow shoulders? If not, try Fantasie. If so, try the Lizbeth and tack the strap over just a tad onto the cup.
You will find the Chantelle Rive Gauche will poke you while also feeling like an armor breastplate. Don't do a real plunge bra with soft tissue--you will fall out.
Let all us short (er, I mean, normal height) people know when you find the Holy Grail!
I have a short torso and my ribcage measures 35 inches. I, too have full on bottom breasts. One of the first "fancy" bras that I bought was a Chantelle Rive Gauche and I love, love, loved it! I typically wear Freya bras and I have a Fantasie that I love. Panache bras poke me under my arms, but I have had luck with Cleo.
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