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How high could the sides of the cups and side wires be?
Having migrated away a lot of tissue from the top of my chest to my armpits I want that back. This is why I strive to get wires and wings as high as possible.
But! How near the armpit is too near? I think, when arms down the Mademoiselle is almost touching my armpit and I don't mind it. On the contrary the wires could have been higher up and the fabric being higher all along under the armpit instead of as now tapering down.
So we are taught that with too high wires our armpits might poke them down. But the opposite is also true; too low wires pokes a fat persons armpit like madness. I have yet to figure out what it is I'm experiencing. But I do think it's the latter. The wires slopes down beneath the fat in the armpit partly because of:
1. Coming up in a too shallow angle (known by Braboratory as "rib cage orange in a glass")
2. Having migrated breast fat in the armpits that simply pushes the wires down.
For some reason I'm thinking I would almost ideally have wires with a "hook" or "curl" to stop the tissue from going to my back.
I don't think it would be impossible to design high wired and comfortable bras for those of us needing them. As long as wires had padding all along the wire channel and padded tops we wouldn't have them poking the armpits.
Anyhow; I think wires don't poke me because there are not a lot of armpit on the shoulder blades where I rest my wiresBut there must be a way to figure out whether my wires are too high or too low.
Also with my curved rib cage I would ideally need vertically prebent wires in the center gore. I do have a very curved sternum.
Quick Fix for Pokey Underwires
I came up with this fix for a bra that has pokey underwires. I have a bra that I like, but which has very thin underwire casing, and as a result, the wires poke me under the arm sometimes. The ...
http://mycurves.wordpress.com/2011/12/20/quick-fix-for-pokey-underwires/
14 comments
An important part of the problem is in the armhole shaping: the further back the wires go, the 'deeper' the curve of the armhole should be, but I think this is seldom how bras are designed or graded.
But what you describe is actually also why a bra really should have vertical boning in the wings: it would allow much more effective wings that can come up higher for a longer stretch around the body, wings that don't wrinkle and buckle under the tension, distribute said tension much more evenly and comfortably along the whole height of the band, and that cause a minimum of bulging, chafing and cutting in.
Also, side seam boning helps against wire distortion.
In fact, I'm certain a bra could be designed that gives a shape and uplift similar to a CK Tease Me or Masquerade Rhea, but that has no underwires at all and instead several strategically placed pieces of lightweight, vertical boning only.
Do you mean boned cups like how the boning in a corset shapes a waist or do you just mean boning around the cups would be enough?
More and more distributed boning in the wings could be made today if I new where to find boning.
But hooks? Really are hooks and eyes stable enough to hold a firm band? Are they just sloppy fastened in bras because they always wants to come loose on me. It has never fallen off but the lowest hook always takes a lot of pressure on me. I think it is because the bottom of my wires rests on my rib. Still the bands rides up.
I've heard fat people in general put more pressure on seams in clothing. It totally makes sense to me that's why there's so much pressure on my hooks. And that's how I came up with that laced up back instead. Simply because I know it's a stronger construction than hooks and eyes. And also about distributing pressure evenly around the back.
So it seams we are again on the same track, only I don't really have the competence to understand how to actually build it?
For me bras really are like balconies and it makes more sense than constructing bras like bridges? Am I on the right track?
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