In my size range, the Doyenne Half-Cup has the following alterations:
- straps moved in 2cm (roughly an inch)
- lowered gore



I also requested:
- straps moved in further (Anna offered to bring them in a total of 3.5 cm)
- wire overlap (the gore overlaps, reducing the overall width of it)
- cookie pockets

I'm not entirely sure that the cup height was reduced at all, as for half-cups these still seem quite tall. However, I can see that the wires do overlap, and the straps do feel closer set and more comfortable. I'll update soon with a strap comparison between the Doyenne and my Coffee Flower Nuance Plunge in the same size.

All 3 of the other Anna Pardals I've owned in this size had 3x3 hook and eye closures; this bra has a 2x3 closure, sadly. It doesn't compromise support as much as I thought it might.

FIT: Anna Pardal's sizing guide suggests I should choose 30GG, generally, since my usual UK sizes have been 28GG and 30G. However, I've suspected that I might do better in an AP 30H. I'm currently at my smallest, and the fit is workable. The cups are tall enough that I really don't think I want to size up to a 30H, and would love them just 1/4" shorter for aesthetic reasons.

I have tried Sabine in the Sophisticate Balconette cut, and had noticeable quadding even at the smallest point in my cycle, and could barely close the bra. With the Doyenne, I do better and I suspect it's because the half-cup is more open on top. That said, this bra felt a bit tight in the band, so I tried it upside down and backward (cups out of the way). The tightness went away. Upon fitting the cups on and clasping the bra, I do find the band a bit tight, so I've been wearing it with one extra set of hooks via an extender. I do get quadding near the gore, but not toward the sides of the bra when I press the floating gore to my sternum.

To be fair, my boobs seem to be a case of unusually short roots.

MATERIAL: I adored the feel of Anna Pardal's Caramel Latte fabric, and have found the Coffee Flower pretty comfortable as well. Sabine feels very soft to my hand, but a little itchy to my breasts. Bear in mind this could be in part due to the tightness of the cups. Where Caramel Latte pilled almost right away, Sabine feels like she'll be much sturdier, on par with my Coffee Flower.

Also, I took a couple of photos while holding the bra up to the light-- Sabine is MUCH lighter and more airy than the other APs I've had! You can actually see through the lace in places, which indicates to me that this may be a more reasonable padded option for the coming summer!

CUPS: I've raved about how forgiving the Nuance Plunge is when it's a little too small for your boobs. I think because of the ribbon detailing, Sabine in any cut is more closed off. Due to this, I'd say if you're unsure of your cup size with AP, either stick with a more open fabric (anything that doesn't have a ribbon across the top) or if you must have Sabine, get her in the Doyenne half-cup cut.

That said, I do find that my breasts feel more secure in this bra than I'm used to-- I'm pleasantly surprised by the "locked and loaded" feeling I get in this bra!

Were it not for the black details, color-wise this bra would vanish under even my Kleenex-weight pink shirt! The seams do show a bit, but they do disappear under my work shirts, which are just barely heavier than the top I use for the Pink Shirt Test.

Also, the SHAPE. I didn't realize how much I loved, needed, wanted this shape. Yes, the half-cup is a bit minimizing in terms of projection, but I do feel that having a little bit of roundness out to my sides helps balance my hips.

STRAPS: As I said of my Coffee Flower, the straps are moved in 3.5 cm, and it makes a huge difference in fit and comfort if you've got very narrow or sloped shoulders. I haven't felt even the hint of a need to tug at my straps while wearing this bra. I have a hunch it may also contribute to the "locked and loaded" feeling I'm getting. I'd also like to note that after quickly laying Sabine's straps over Coffee Flower's, Sabine's straps are not as wide. If you miss the spaghetti-like straps VS offers, these may be a nice compromise between those and the typical full-bust straps.

GORE: So far, my Coffee Flower Nuance is the reigning champ for gore tacking, and even with Sabine's overlapping gore CF still holds that title. Near the gore is also the only area where I get a hint of quadding. Since I'm at the smallest point in my cycle right now, I'm a little concerned that this bra may only be wearable 1-2 weeks out of each 2 month boob-cycle. The gore on Sabine does float a bit, probably due to its height, my close-set breasts, and the wire softness (which is what makes such a high gore wearable for me).

BAND: It feels quite firm. The overlapping gore likely takes some of the length out of the band, which may contribute to how tight it feels. It's also possible that since the hooks are 2x3, the band is narrower than is ideal for me, personally.
The inside is lined with the same super smooth, silky, ridiculously soft stuff as my Caramel Latte and Coffee Flower. However, at the top and bottom of the band, those with sensitive skin may find the it a bit itchy since the lace does extend past the edge of the band (but isn't sewn into the inside of the bra).

WIRES: They are a bit wide for me, but not problematic. In fact, go take a look at lcl0706 's Comexim Sonia 3HC review here:
https://thephotogsbrog.wordpress.com/2015/10/07/bra-review-comexim-sonia-half-cup-60j/
and notice the photo where she indicates the difference between her root and the wire. That is almost exactly how the width of this bra is for me. I've given this bra my usual break-in of working a couple of full shifts in it, and continue to actually feel like my boobs are more secure than I'm used to. Good lord, do I feel strapped in!

DOWNSIDE(S): I think 30GG may have either been a touch too small in the cups to begin with, or I am slowly outgrowing it. The cup height seems a little excessive to me. I'd love a wider band, and after wearing for a bit, my larger left side shows about 1/2" of bruising along the bottom middle of the wire line, in a stippling pattern. I suspect this might be due to the cups not being quite deep enough or the band being a bit too narrow (not distributing the weight as much), although I would love some other thoughts on why this might happen!

UPSIDE(S): Love, love the look of this bra. The overlapping gore is much more helpful than I even anticipated. I'm surprised at how secure the Doyenne HC feels, and if speaking purely of aesthetics, the daintiness of this bra is really lovely.

Sabine colorway

Updated on Mar 14, 2016 Flag this

• 1

  So beautiful on you! Sounds like you may adopt a 30H...

• 1

  I wish I had not omitted the "extra fasteners" request from my most recent order. Three by four fasteners dramatically increase my comfort. It appears the additional strap movement inward may have given you more space near the gore. I totally expected to see significant quadding, but it fits you remarkably well. Wow!!

• 2

  This looks really fabulous on you!!

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