The wires on this size (28H) were too wide for me (as in too wide to be wearable/comfortable), and not sure if it's the too-wide wires, a side effect of having a v-shaped and rounded torso, or if 28H is more shallow than 28GG (or I got a dud in one of the two sizes, which is throwing off my reviews). Despite that this should be the better size...there's not enough immediate projection in bottom of the cup, especially for my smaller (but more projected) side. Where it's cutting in is actually painful. If I knew bending the wires to make them follow my torso would fix the issues at the bottom of the cups, I might have kept it.
The puckering is just from a shape incompatibility, I think, and seems to be a pretty common issue. There isn't as much extra space there as it looks, and the 28GG (which was clearly at least a little too small in the cup!) also puckered in the same spot. I think the cups are just too tall for my short (vertically) breasts. Gem may also be cut or fit a tad big in the cups, as I know I've seen mentioned. Not a lot, but if you're in-between, you might consider sizing down--do look at measurements, though. The band also lives up to reviews as running a band-size big, and why I tried 28 bands.
So far, Cleo Kali in 30GG has been my 'best' fit, although it's meant more for FOB shapes and I'm more even (which is one reason I tried this bra--Gem is supposedly geared more toward even/FOT). Shape-wise, if it helps others, my breasts are wide set, splayed with outer fullness, and again seem to be more 'even' as far as a bra is concerned.
Updated on Aug 07, 2016
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