Made this bra according to the pattern of a hacked 30F Marks&Spencers bra. The original bra had a 4-part cups, 3 sewn vertically and one for the upper part. That shit cray. I'm never gonna hack a bra ever again. SO MANY PARTS AND LAYERS TO UNSEAM. *cries*
Having no idea about the grading system, aka, I don't know how they increase the size from one cup to another, I just added 1cm all over. That includes the seam allowance as well.
As for the cradle pattern, I just traced my 28G Cleo Lucy cradle shape, and call it a day. As for the band pattern, I copied the pattern ... given on Cloth Habit's Bra Sew Along project (http://clothhabit.com/bramaking-sew-along/), and call it a day.
And so the sewing begins.
Note that I don't bother to sew nicely, or fold the edges nicely, nor use zig-zag stitching for anything, except for the straps. All of these, I use straight stitching.
First, I joined the cups. I only used the three vertical parts. If I were to use the upper part as well, I might as well go ahead and make a purse instead of a bra. Then, I guesstimate in attaching the cups into the cradle. From there I can already see that the cup is blardy huge. And then I attached the cradles together side by side so it looks like a bra. And it did. And then I attached the underwire channels. And put in the underwires. And then I attached the band. And then I attached the hook and eye and the straps. I simply put the straps to where I think it'll at least give some support.
And then I try it on.
And you can see how it is in the first three pictures. Droopy snoopy.
Then I had the idea of attaching some angled straps to the main strap, something like Marlies Dekker's design, because I like it so much.
And bam! Shape uplifted.
The underwires were poking me, because the centre gore is tooooo wide. But hey, at least the centre gore lays flat! I was impressed with myself. I took the underwire out from the snazzy part of the cup, and bam! The shape and lift is still kinda good.
And so I called it a day and went to sleep.
The end.
Update 2014.
I ended up throwing this bra into the trash, since it was no use to me and I lost interest on constructing a bra.
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Updated on Oct 12, 2014 Flag this
I like your sizing. lol. 28XX. lol.
I have to say I'm impressed. Seriously don't give up because I think you definitely pull off bra designing. Also, love that print! Very pretty choice.
Good job!