Me: Narrow roots, narrow shoulders, evenly round, lots of immediate projection, very soft tissue, fairly centre full, never met a gore I didn't like, left-heavey by more than a cup size, 31" underbust, but prefer tight band with extender. Panache, Freya size 30GG
So I risked it and bought the SM in the custom 65H. It fits perfectly ..... except the straps are too widely set. Surprise, surprise. It is wearable, but I won't buy another.
The SM is narrower thanthe BM, and I find that it provides more lift and a more round shape than the BM.
It is a beautiful bra ... blush ... pink - which is nude on me - with satin covering the seams. I was worried about in-cup quading with this fabric change on the seams. It looks perfect in the this respect, but my fingertips pick up infintesimal amounts of bulge around the seam join at the apex depending on my posture. This just reassures me that it is well made because the problem is clearly intentionally avoided.
The band does not need an extender on me, so it is a touch on the larger side compared with the BM bibi. The cup size is perfect. The centre gore is just tall enough to keep me from spilling out but only just so it will not impede any of my necklines. The tops of the cups have a lace trim but no elastic or facing and are fairly open. Allows for my centre fullness
Three hooks, no side boning, fairly thick, scalloped straps - front side has lace on it so not fully adjustable, but it looks like it is just a single zigzag tack that can be removed easily.
I love this bra ... except not only with the straps fall off (which happens for me even on really well fitting bras), but the straps dig in to my armpits and will chaffe if I am overly active. Oh, plus, unless I sit with perfect posture, the straps push the top edge of the cup inwards and buckle and gape!
Oh Ewa ....
***Edit: Alteration: I took a dart in the triangle where the strap attaches to the cup all in the fabric without sewing the elastic at all. I had to cut the trim and retack is to prevent it from bulking up and it was tricky to make sure the bottom angled back out so that the cups weren't reduced or distorted. I am a touch worried about the tension on the mesh, but it makes this one of the best fitting bras I have!!
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Updated on Mar 28, 2017 Flag this