I have soft, saggy breasts. This means that my measurements; about 36 underbust and 44 overbust have so ... far lead to bras that are still too big in the band and too small in the cups. (calculators recommend 36FF, so far I've gone up to a 34GG and I'm not there yet)
I think this is why; overbust standing: 44", overbust with bra standing: 43-44", overbust leaning over: 49" That's a 6" difference! Also my underbust is squishy, I can get to 32" unbearably tight, which means I have a good 3" margin of best tightness, and none of the bands I've tried in 34-36 has stretched to anything less than 38".
This is what I know of the bras I've tried:
Freya wires? Barely too narrow, maybe better on bigger cups.
Panache wires; nicely firm which I like, don't distort, were good width in FF.
Wacoal wires; varies- Awareness super firm and wide, All Dressed Up not so much. Very forgiving cups.
Elomi/Goddess; flimsy, stretchy wires that distort too wide and make the band loose.
Cleo; gave me the weirdest, wavy shape; I suspect my breasts were too soft for it and so any pull from the straps distorted the cup shape.
I much prefer bands wider in back, but they need need need to be low on the sides! I'm short and high set, which means even 4" wings can be a pain in the armpit as I really don't have much space between my underbust and armpit; maybe 4.5", which is why I want to keep trying Freya.
I'm too soft for plunges and half cups, so it's balconettes or full cups for me.
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