Bra fitting help » Odd wrinkle under arm
Masquerade » Harem Plunge Bra (6576) » 28H 28:11
Issue resolved
I returned this. The construction just wasn't up to the standard I'd expect for a Masquerade bra and the fit was just not right for my shape.
Original problem
I'm not really sure what the issue is with this bra. The cup in the armpit area wrinkles at the top of the cup. It is almost impossible to get a photo of it. I have a few ideas for what it could be, but I'd love some feedback.
1. The molding of the bra extends almost to the top of the area under the arm. The material of the strap extends past where it would normally meet at the cup edge, down under the arm to the wire. The extra width of this molding and strap could be the cause.
2. The bra could just be the wrong style. Either I have too much forward projection for the cups or not enough width.
3. Wrong size in general. I was recently fitted in a Panache Andorra 28HH, with an almost perfect fit.(In addition to the measurements listed, I am also 15 weeks pregnant. Measurements have only slightly changed, but the weight and density of my breasts have changed in addition to going up a cup size.)
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Suggestions (4)
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helpfulIt looks to me like this is a problem with the strap elastic and the angle at which it is sewn on. The wrinkle is not in the cup, but in the trim which is all one piece with the strap. The wrinkle might go away as the bra breaks in, but I don't think it is actually an issue of how the bra fits.
It is an issue of construction. The trim is sewn on at a curved angle, and then that angle changes because the straps go in a different direction. The trim should have been cut on the bias to correct this, or the strap should have been made in a separate piece. If you pull the straps closer together, the wrinkle will disappear because the angle changed, BUT this shouldn't be necessary. It was just a bad idea to make the bra the way they did.
You noted in your fit description though that the bra rides up in back and that the straps are too far apart. If those are true, then the bra doesn't fit you anyway.
You also said that the cup is too wide. It does not appear to me that there is empty space in the cups near the outside, but that could be a flaw of the pictures. The bra actually looks like a good fit in the cups.
This cup does not appear to be molded, as it has seams. Do you mean that it is padded? There is a lot of confusion about molded vs padded on the internet.
Updated on May 23, 2012 Flag this
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Well molded basically means shaped- a bra can be molded but not padded, or molded and padded. This one looks padded but not molded.
If the cup is too wide for you, I would just return it. The bra seems to have been poorly-conceived.
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helpfulIt looks like a symptom of having cups too wide. If it had narrower wires the back of the cup would not reach so near your arm which would fix the issue.
Now, I don't that going down a cup would fix the problem as it would effectively have a narrower cup but then the center gore would suffer
These are some ideas of bras with narrower cups and similar cup depths:
http://www.bratabase.com/search/advances/even_more/?ribcage=66&threshold_ribcage=5&stretched_band_length=0.0&threshold_stretched_band_length=5&band_length=0.0&threshold_band_length=2.5&cup_width=17&threshold_cup_width=1.0&cup_depth=29.2&threshold_cup_depth=1.5&wire_length=27.9&threshold_wire_length=1.5&cup_separation=0.0&threshold_cup_separation=0.7&strap_width=0.0&threshold_strap_width=0.7&units=0&size=&even_more=Even+more+advanced+searchUpdated on May 23, 2012 Flag this
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helpful
I tried this style on and had the same problem - the satin edge trim kinks instead of lying smoothly when it suddenly curves up from the bra to the shoulder strap.
The fitter said this happened quite a bit in this style on girls with narrow shoulders. I don't think it's the narrow shoulders exactly - I think the wires are too wide and sit too far underneath the armpit which creates too sharp a curve for the trim to follow.
Move onto another style I think!
Updated on May 24, 2012 Flag this
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helpfulI would say it is a combination of wrong size and wrong cut. Mostly 2 and 3.
Wwrong cut: You have alot of volume near the centergore, ie a lot of forward projection in this area. The bra is cut for somebody with almost nothing there and more volume to the sides. Thus you are spilling out of the cup near the centergore. Also the rim of the cup is too closed for you, it would give you plunge-related quadboob if you had this bra in the right size. This is a common problem with plunges and I think you might want to avoid this cut in the future, especially from Masquerade/Cleo.
If you are pregnant, you might want to by nursing bras now. Look at Hotmilk and Royce. It is also possible to attach a nursing clip to regular bras. The Panache Andorra with its elastic lace is a very good bra for nursing mothers.
Updated on May 25, 2012 Flag this
There isn't really anything I can do about the back band, I truly need a 26 which is almost impossible. If I can get a good cup fit I end up shortening the band as necessary. I leave the bra showing as too big in the band for accuracy. As for the cup width, it isn't visible in the photos. They angle back too far ending past my breast tissue under the arm. I don't have breasts that are wide at the root, so this is a common issue for me as well. Same with the straps, I have narrow shoulders and a petite build so a good majority of bras sit wide.
As for the cups, I don't want to call it padded because the material is more stiff material not a padding. It is also super thin, impossible to measure thin. It is like they took the molding from a normal bra, created the two part lower part of the cup, then sewed the silky outer material on top of that instead of creating a smooth cup that holds its shape properly. It's the weirdest thing, it's a molded material with seams. It is nothing at all like the Freya Deco or Affinitas Casey/Jeanie. I've seem this bra listed as padded, molded, plunge, push up, but it is the most contradictory bra I've seen. It's like the love child of several bras that just doesn't come together right.