Bra fitting help » Second Ewa Michalak
Ewa Michalak » Pl Karmelki (260) » 70L 32:17
Issue resolved
I don't get along with Plunge bras at all. So I won't try any other plunge bras be it Ewa Michalaks PLs or from another brand I will stick to Panache balconettes, because they work best for me.
Original problem
The band is comfortably snug. Not too tight, but not too lose.
The cups are too big as I expected, and there is some gaping on top and the wires are too wide for me.
Shoulder straps are too seperated but I have this problem on all my bras. The center gore does not lie flat on it's own.
I have added some pictures where I push the gore flat and some pictures on which I'm wearing the bra with the push-up pads. (there is less gaping then)
Now is it really too big? Would sizing down solve my issues?
Or should I just give up on Ewa Michalak and Plunges in general?
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Suggestions (4)
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helpfulWhat happens if you tighten the straps a bit more? From what I can see it seems as if the straps are slightly too loose (The angle at the bottom of the cup is "saggy", something that only can be corrected with shorter straps as the whole angle of the cup is to much downwards), while the wires are a bit too wobbly for you and the straps are too far apart.
In absolut sizes the cup size down will be too small for you I think, but, without alterations it might still look better. For an optimal version of this you would need to move the straps closer to the center front, shorten the straps and then change the wires. It will probably be good even without the last one. If you don't want any alterations you'd probably need to size down, which will make the cup too small, but, the too wide straps will compensate and push the cup forward to give more depth than it really has...
Updated on February 11, 2013 Flag this
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Just my thoughts with the strap position, I'm wearing the 30K tightened to the max, so there is no way you'd get away with any looser straps in 32L :)
You should deffinitly move the straps in like Nesoa does, it will free some space in the arms too which you need. And if you have a nude freya antoinette, maybe put those straps in instead of the original ones - I found they tend to curl up when strained too much.
Anyway, I'm not sure what the deal is here, but this bra looks MUCH better than the red pl. Is the gore higher in this? That would explain it :)
Oh, and even with loose straps the band seems to be riding up on the side shot... That would solve you not feeling secure in it issue. Are you keeping it? -
alisa: I don't even get how we can have the same fitting issues in Ewa. The gaping at the sides, the pushing out the center gore. I don't need high gores, I just need no gores and some lift from underneath and my boobs will fit themselves nicely towards each other in the middle. As a comparison; How did Tease Me work for you in the gore. I think for me it's too high combined with too narrow so I just push the gore out in the same way I do in Ewa.
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Vee: Oh those shoulder straps... Boudoir Beau straps are heaven compared to them. I did not have time to do the alternation and I'm not 100% sure If I keep the bra... the gaping got worse :( And the more I thighten the straps the more the band does move. I'm just not an Ewa girl :(
@Branarchist: The gore on the Tease Me did not lie flat in any size. Closest to lying flat was 28J. Of course it was always too small (I think that bra runs like 1-2 cup sizes small ) and the cups were always to shallow for me. Now tried one of my old Tease Me on ( I kept one, just because it's so pretty) and of course it looks ridiculous but wearing the bra like a strapeless it just feels supportive o.O. Weird. I don't really know why we are having the same issues in Ewa bras but anyway I came to the concluson that there is no logic in bra fitting at all.
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alisa I've come to the conclusion about Ewa that there are two ways of fitting into Ewa. If you have full boobs then size down, fit oneself like she fits her models, complete with floating gores and/or quadboob. Or 2: With shallow boobs size up. This is why those with smaller boobs wear larger sizes in EM while those with fuller boobs wears smaller sizes. While it might sound non logical I think there's a fine logic here. The shallower boobs puts less pressure on the weak parts of the bras and so can size up. The heavier boobs are simply squished to fit. And obviously Ewa fits her models like that so that must be how she wants them to fit. Even more so when the models sizes are made public on a photo. *mutter* :)
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Branarchist Interesting thought:) Maybe the calculator isn't that wrong ? I get 70J (when putting in my supertight-tight-underbust) or 75HH. The bras I tried were 70L (4 cup sizes bigger than recommended) and 75JJ (2 cup sizes bigger than recommended) however the gore didn't lie flat on any of the bras.
I don't think it would in a smaller size. Anyway isn't Kris Line also fitting her models like this ? Floating gores? I can't imagine if such a bra will be supportive... will it just fit like a too small bra and give no support? -
I hate to say this, but *if the band is right*, a smaller bra is likely to give better support than a larger one and I see two reasons that is the case for me:
- narrow boobs that struggle with too wide wires will feel more support from a narrower wire in a smaller size
- smaller cup = more compression = more supportI have come to she same conclusion about ewa as Branarchist did. It's essential for shallow boobs to size up because of too narrow wires/deep cups in ewa.
I think Curvy Wordy in the pl milady is the best example how sizing up with full projected boobs works in ewas bras.
In my personal opinion she looks a lot better in slightly too small size because tzhe bigger size just gives more elipsoid projection which is - from my experience - less supportive/more jiggle prone compaired to bras that hold boobs closer to the chest. -
I always found it a bit weird to size up 3-4 size from my Panache size.
1-2 wouldn't be that weird. And I was confused that TM wears her Tango size + cup up in Ewa Michalak and others have to size up 4-5 sizes.
Vee I also found the wires on both my Ewa PLs too wide ... either the wires are wide + shallow cup like on Tango & Harmony or narrow + deep cups. Do you think I would need also a smaller size to get a better fit in the Ewa Michalak Sm Trefl or only in PLs / padded bras? -
I have no idea to be honest. Some say it runs like the pl, others that it runs larger. But my initial theory for the pl was 2 cups up from your cleo size. Stil makes sense to me. :) i think I'd go for 70j/jj in sm and alter the band if needed. No dominik :)
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alisa Vee I think there's a logic in what Vee says about narrower wires and smaller cups. For deep full boobs. But I figure they need to be firm to work for that fitting method? Because firm boobs = no top jiggle so no need for stopping movement upwards if not doing like workout. So this fitting logic could also be the BIHAL fitting logic right?
But with less firm boobs you need more coverage. Otherwise they escape. Less firm boobs are harder to "lock in" so to speak. While firm boobs jiggle in the whole softer boobs jiggle "locally", like for example on top. So if fitted with an open top in a smaller cup they might start to move as alisa boobs in the Deco. And so a smaller cup might be more problematic?
I am still not sure about this thought but I think in general softer boobs needs larger cups than firmer boobs. Which makes the most heavy compact boobs be in the smallest cups compared to their weight. And so wikipedia boob weight compared to bra size is so much bullshit there cannot even be more bullshit, at least if one wants support from a bra.
And now; combine all of these logics and those with the need for the largest cups compared to their weight is *drumroll* shallow and softer boobs like mine? Wider wires and deeper cups to reach around the root and straps tightened to prevent top jiggle.
I know there are missing bits in this puzzle.
But in general I think the Ewa logic applies to bra fitting in general?
So the question is if sizing down would help in alisas case. I am not sure. I think if so maybe size down a lot?
And yes I think the calculator might be accurate for the boobs Ewa intended her bras to; full deep narrower boobs.
Oh and don't even get me started about how wrong I think measuring is in general for shallow boobs.
I wore the altered gore 36J Andorra with altered straps yesterday for several hours. I will send you some pics of it since it's huge on me but the shape is perfect.
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Oh and btw please correct the gaps in my logic!
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helpfulHave you tried bending the center gore wires in to touch your sternum? I did this with a Cleo Meg and it made a HUGE difference. I had to bend them so they curve in about 1 inch. The center gore was about 1 inch from my sternum. Double that (for each breast) and I basically had TWO extra inches of projection in the cups, which threw everything off. Still working with that bra, but the bending the wires made an incredible difference. It also allowed me to see how strong the wires really are. They STAY where I bent them even under the weight of breasts. Pretty incredible strength for something so thin. Wires do a LOT of work in a bra. I ordered a PL Karmelki and am waiting for it to be delivered. It shipped 1/28 and they estimated 12 days. It should be here any day now and I am so anxious!
Updated on February 11, 2013 Flag this
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helpfulI wonder if you would have a better experience in a 30L?
I know from the times that I have tried EM that for me to get a good fit (with a flat center gore, etc.) I have to err on the side of smaller cup and tighter band. With this, I get the right tension on the wires and the center gore is shorter on me. Some have said that the cleavage is too much in the "smaller" cup size, but I have tried the next cup size up and it does not feel secure at all (the gore won't lay flat).
Updated on February 21, 2013 Flag this
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So you mean If I tried a smaller cup (+smaller band) size it would solve my issues... I thought of this too, but mostly the gore not lying flat does mean that the cups are actually too small?! I also think, that plunge bras just don't work for me. I really need a higher gore to get proper support.
However If I ever decide to give Ewa another chance, I might get an S bra in 30L. -
The gore not lying flat isn't always about the cup being too small. Sometimes it's because there isn't enough tension on the wires - pulling them wide enough, sometimes the gore is too tall and hits you at the wrong spot, sometimes it's too wide....the list goes on.
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I had that issue of the gore not lying flat on my PL Carmen 34JJ which was indeed to big in the band. Bras with a higher gore do give me more support and stability than some with a lower gore. I wonder if I ever find my real size in Ewa, if the bra will actually be as supportive as it should.
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helpfulIt looks like the cups may be too big - there's gaping on the top, and you say that wires are too wide. It may be also the reason why the gore doesn't lay flat. And why the straps are so apart.
Updated on July 1, 2013 Flag this
You were right about shortening the straps. (I'll add some pictures later) The cups do now fit better and they don't look too big anymore. But... I can shorten the straps only up to the top of my shoulders, not more because otherwise "I cut my arms off". Also the band does feel suddenly less secure, when the straps are more tight. The center gore does not lie entirely flat too. I get a better shape though. But the bra does not feel as supportive as it should (if I compare to the Panache Tango I'm wearing now) it just that there is still too much weight on the shoulder straps which makes the bra very uncomfortable for longer wears :( I know I have to change the straps position anyway and hope this will solve some issues.
But I think I'm going to give up on Ewa Michalak, at least on the PL bras. They are just not made for me.