Bra fitting help » Molded cups + short boobs = fitting fun!

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Fantasie » Allure (7110) » 34G 34:9

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Suggestions (2)

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  helpful

  I've been having a similar issue. Like you, I have a wide root and I'm full on the bottom, so I need longer underwires, yet I'm finding many cups with longer underwires get too narrow at the tips (or get flappy on top, like in your picture). I've been doing bra research for a couple of months, and I'm convinced that wide root-wide breasts are a widely (pun intended) under-served market. For me, especially with moulded bras, it's either wrinkles at the cup tips/top of cup, or the top of the cup digs in and flattens me out. The wide straps (i.e. Allure/Porcelain, Atlantis) seem especially awkward on those of us with short torsos. In my short experience with wearing bras that fit, I've noticed that the majority of bras I've tried from brands who specialize in "small back" sizes have very wide set straps. Also, "side support" is treated as something needed by bigger band sizes only. After wires that actually fit the circumference of my boobs, "side support" is an important issue for me. While they're definitely getting the band sizes and cup sizes down, bra designers have yet to incorporate "just right" for those of us who need the center gores and side wings to be higher and also need straps that are wider and closer together. In the US I've seen some "Bali" and "Olga" bras that look like they'd be shaped just right for me. Unfortunately these brands rarely have band sizes smaller than 36. I digress

  In your bra it would seem that trying a bigger cup would not work. I'm guessing the wider underwires would allow for your tissue to settle even more in the bottoms of the cups. Possibly you could sew an angled seam on the tops of the cups directly behind/beneath where the cups meet the straps? In your picture it looks like the center gore is so high it's forcing the cups away from each other. Since they're not sitting in the position for which they were shaped to fit, they're buckling in other places, making the bottoms too snug and the tops loose. Tucking in the cups a bit may help with the extra material at the cup, but I'm not sure if it could stop the center gore from pushing the cups away from each other. You might have to take in the center gore as well. For all that tailoring you'd likely be better off with another bra!

  Updated on May 13, 2013 Flag this

  
  

  • will comment in a bit. my touchpad is fighting w/bratabase another autocorrect is driving me crazy. have to get to computer + keyboard.

  • A couple of years ago when I learnt there were any such thing as oval boobs I've since then always thought CK balconette bras were made with those boobs in mind. I would also say Freya Arabella (5721) is made for those kind of boobs. But the problems are those bras has straps extremely far apart.

    However the bras in themselves, wires and cups included should at least be the best bet in theory.

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    drownedsalad OMG I just stumbled across these pics while looking at Andorra plunge. The person in the purple bra, doesn't she look like you at least a little?!

    http://www.bratabase.com/browse/panache/andorra-plunge-5676/32G/

    I think I have to get myself an Andorra plunge as well :D

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    Branarchist YES That girl in the purple bra looks like my shape. Wow.

    and yes, Andorra, both the plunge and the full cup are at the top of my 'bras I must try' list.

    ShaniSunAZ Yes, yes, yes, to everything you said.

    I obviously can't really alter this molded cup bra, though I might try just for kicks or at least to try out re-attaching the straps in a better place for me. The last time I wore the bra, I got deep enough marks on my shoulder crease (you know, that spot just above underarm crease) that I'm afraid I'm going to start getting scar tissue there. :(

    I've been thinking about altering my 34H - Freya » Tara (4601) to deal with the flappy lace on top and the strap placement, but not sure I'll go through with it. I have pics of me in that bra, but I keep forgetting to put them up.

    Part of the reason I might not, is that the bottom of the cup, again, angles up too quickly for my boobs. The bra cup kind of shimmies down to try to get the apex at my boob apex which results in flat-folded fabric on the bottom side of my boob. It's not extra width fabric - there is no empty space. It's like the cup creates its own darts to take up extra vertical fabric. It's kind of like the fold that happens in this Fantasie molded cup at the bottom, but the Freya is just 1 layer of fabric, so can actually finish folding itself.

    I don't mind how it looks, but it's not really supportive, since it can shift at any moment. If I adjust to smooth out those folds, it makes my boob point up so unnaturally, I'm afraid it might damage the tissue over time. I'd have to make those folds permanent, I think, if I were to alter the bra.

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    I have nothing to add, except that this is pretty exactly how bras behave on me as well, even though my breasts are considerably smaller than yours. Short boobs = you're screwed, girl! :(

    I've been considering altering some non-padded bras by taking out a horizontal 'dart' resulting in a horizontal seam at the new apex of the shortened cups, but this obviously won't really work for moulded cups ...

  • 2

    Tight straps give me migraines and neck pain. That is the worst. When I suggested sewing in a seam I didn't realize how thick the cup material is on the Allure. Trying to sew on the cup would likely just make it cause weird shapes, so that's a bad idea.

    I LOVE the Andorra. The lace they use is amazing. I bought an Andorra when I had no idea what on earth I was doing (like I know now, haha), and I bought size 28D ( in a gorgeous purple color). The cups run small to begin with, so they gave me that "pushed flat onto my chest plus weird points" look, but I could tell that the Andorra would be a great bra for my shape. It has "slings" in the cups, which really support me, and the high sides help contain the armpit migration. I replaced the underwires with ones I pulled out of a cheap "Barely Breezies" bra, and, believe it or not, it helped. It made the cups wider so they surround all my tissue and the incredible Andorra lace takes care of the rest. I will buy a new Andorra in the proper size (assuming I ever figure out what that will be) as soon as I can afford one.

    I've come to realize I have terrible luck with molded bras. I know EXACTLY what you mean when you say the "bra cup shimmies down to try to get the apex at my boob apex..." Yup. That's just what happens to me, and I get the darts at the bottom when I try to shift the tissue as well.

    The Fantasie Allure is such a pretty bra it's one of those things where you want to MAKE it work...but if the straps are hurting it's just not worth it.

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    drownedsalad The more I think about it, the more crazy I think it is using a bra with too small cup depth for ones need. So I'd say 32HH/34H Emily CK. Or Romance. Maybe the other CK in the same size but make sure it's the old cut. But with your need for cup depth maybe - I now think - the Andorra might not be the best choice. But it depends on where you need the cup depth on your boobs.

    I am starting to think that maybe you should look for low cut bottom sections. So that the seam that divides top and bottom section in a bra should be as low as possible. What it makes is this; it lifts the boobs more so that they can fill out the top of the bras. This in it's turn makes you able to size up. That was my Andorra logic. To reach around your root you probably would need a 34J Andorra however. And then it might be too tall and so it might be better to go for CK Emily/Romance instead.

  • Branarchist ShaniSunAZ MilkAndHoney

    Yup. I've been thinking more and more about it.

    yes, on the low-cut bottom part with the lower seam. Don't see it much, though. I will have to look more and/or do the alteration like milkandhoney suggested.

    I'm still thinking I have to just find the right WIRE fit in a bra that is amenable to alteration. Basically, get a bra that is not padded or molded at all and fit the wire to my base. Then, I can deal with top-flappiness, strap placement, possible bottom-of-cup dart alterations, etc.

    I think I might try for a 34J andorra. If the wire fits and there is enough depth in the cup for my longest 'circumference' of boob, then I should be able to easily take in where I need to, like in the vertical height of the base of the cup, across the top, shift the strap, etc.

  • drownedsalad There is a 38GG Andorra listed here with the same cup depth that might be cheaper. I don't know how it can have the same cup depth but it does seem it has :)

  • lol thanks, Branarchist

    O_O
    I have no idea of how my boob is that depth. It just doesn't seem right.

    Then again, there is so much tissue under my arms...

  • drownedsalad: I was confused about the bra having the same cup depth as a bigger size that sister sized should be smaller.

    Your boobs being that wide and hence has that large a perimeter is totally logic to me since I have the same problem :)

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  helpful

  Well you seem to have some interesting problems, before I give you suggestions can you answer some questions? Did you swoop and scoop? Are you sure your ribcage is 35 with a tight measure? Does it feel like the cup is too large on the bottom or is your boob just not fitting in the bottom? Are you wearing the bra too low?

  Updated on May 13, 2013 Flag this

  
  

  • *Note: there are little comments attached to the pics that describe more detail. Most were after sw/scooping, but a couple were after wearing all day + no adjustment before photographing. There are notes about what I'm pointing at or trying to show, too.

    Yes to sw/scooping. Underbust is slightly under 35" now. I need them tight and prefer wider bands, so this bra is a bad example.

    The cup is not too large on the bottom. ?the angle of cup from Eire to apex is too steep to accommodate my boobs. This is a problem with shorter boobs. My apex and largest measurement hits lower on my boob than most bra manufacturers assume. The folding is what results. Basically, the bra is shimmying down so the apex is closer to my boob apex, but the band does not move and the result is a crease in the cup, right above the wire. This happens in most of my bras. It's extra vertical fabric, not extra horizontal fabric.

    I am not wearing the bra too low. I wish I could wear it lower as it would help with the armscye cutting off my arms and the straps creating bruises in the arm/body crease and/or falling off.

    Most of the problems with this bra's bad fit on me are due to the wires being too narrow + the molded cups + my boobs being short.

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    I am working on reviewing bras myself, but I noticed your comment about "short boobs". So is that what is causing my issues with wrinkles in bottom of cups?? I found a couple "decent" fitting bras that stopped my back pain, but the band fabric seems too stretchy now (maybe they're just worn out) and the cups have wrinkles in the bottom!

  • medicechic It could be short-boob syndrome, but it could be something else.

    Is it wrinkling or actual folds that are flattened on boob?

    Wrinkles => usually means that portion of cup is too big
    Folding => usually means the cup is adjusting itself to your boob, often by shimmying down to bring the apex of the cup to your boob's apex/largest perimeter. This is what can happen if you have 'short' boobs.

    To me, 'short boobs' means that you have the same AROUND measurement as a 'standard' boob, but it's like everything is squashed shorter? Like how a petite woman can have the same measurements as someone taller, but all of the parts (bust, waist, etc.) are closer together, so it changes the proportions and they can't wear the same clothes? It's a little different than shallow - those are more like same volume, but spread out more than sticking out? Though... sometimes short boobs act like shallow boobs. Depends on the person.

    As for the bands... yup, sometimes they just get stretched out. Depends on the material/quality and also sometimes just time.

    A lot of people recommend that you buy bras that are tight on the loosest hook so that you can still use the bra for a while. Some even recommend if you are in between sizes, or if you have to wear the bra on a tighter setting, to size down the band (and go up a cup size if necessary).

    If the smaller band is a little too tight, wear it with an extender for a while until it stretches a little.
    

  • Oops, forgot to add... if the band is too long, but you think tightening it will make the cups behave, you can try a Rixie clip.

    http://www.etsy.com/shop/RixieClip

    I haven't bought any yet, but I will when I have my bra budget built up a little.

    They also sell on ebay. Oh, and they're only in 2-hook styles so far, though I think they know everyone is stalking them for 3-hooks and higher.

  • Thank you drownedsalad

    My issue is the folding. My bras have "permanent" creases down around the underwire. I've been reading about "shallow" breasts and I think that is part of my problem. When leaning down I feel like my breast tissue goes all the way up to my collarbones but there isn't much poking out there.

    I'd never heard of the rixieclip. That's a great idea!

  • I also have issues with a fat roll underneath my bra band in the front that I've never had before! I notice it when I'm sitting. And I notice bulging still under my arms/ just in front of my arm pits where your arm meets your chest in the front. Many bras I try on cut into the tops of my breasts and give me a funny shape, but the next size up is too big. I think I'm answering my question, because obviously I need a different size/style.

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