Bra fitting help » Enough volume in the cups but still gaping and central gore gaping

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Ewa Michalak » Hp Rokoko (299) » 65GG 30:10

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• 1
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  Could you take a picture of how the armhole and the strap fit around your arm without the tag in the way? It would be very helpful.

  From what I can tell so far you have the classical Ewa Michalak problem, the straps are too far apart for you. Ewa Michalak does not grade her cup parts from sister size to sister size, which means that the straps are in general placed for someone with a quite a bit bigger frame than you have. Because of that the strap sits in the wrong place. For your arms to get the room they need they push the cup forward, which causes gaping, both in the top of the cup but it can also affect even the center gore.

  What you can do is to either consider alter this area, or, aim for styles with less armhole problems. In general the PL is atleast a touch better than the half cups, and the S tends to be even better. For the half cups some people find the CH better than the HP when it comes to the straps as it doesn't go as high, but the straps will still be far apart.

  Saw the new pictures, thank you! Now it becomes clear you have a problem with the armholes and straps. You are getting zero lift because the cups are pushed down so much by your arms. You cannot really tighten the straps at all, they will just hit your ribcage.

  Updated on May 2, 2013 Flag this

  
  

  • Added the pictures, hope thats clear with the label tucked in, don't want to remove it yet. :P

    That actually makes a lot of sense. I got a PL in the same order and although it gapes slightly it fits a lot better (and the gaping disappears with the pads) so I may give the S a go.

    Is there any tell-tale signs for which bras/brands have this kind of issue? I seem to be having this problem with a lot of different bras (Fantasie moulded t-shirts in particular) and I assumed it was due to me having the wrong size or the wrong shaped boobs but the strap problem now seems like it could apply to quite a lot of these issues.

  • Sadly I haven't found any way to tell before which bras that are good and which are bad. To make matters worse, In my size (60JJ in Ewa Michalak) it is quite common but I rarely see this much of a problem in your size. Because of that I don't think it is just a grading problem, you might have a small frame for your size as well? Do you tend to have problems with clothes having too wide shoulders/too much fabric in the back?

    As to bras, the tricky thing is that to get the boobs front and center straps tends to sit more to the side of the breast, to pour it over from the side of the torso to the front. Because of that almost all bras in your size are quite far apart. You could look for more centered straps, I think Chantelle might have some bras with a more center strap around your size, but if I remember correctly they end at a smaller cup size in a 30-band. :( The other bra I think of is the Panache Ariza Balconnet Bra (5051) , which both runs big in the cup (so you will be able to size down from this size and get the straps closer together and has the straps much closer than most models.

    The other option is to look for bras that run big in the cups. When they do run big then you can size down and atleast get a tiny bit less of a problem with the straps. I'm mainly thinking about the Freya Deco (4234), but also the unpadded Cleos in the newer collections like:
    * Cleo Melissa (6991)
    * Cleo Meg Balconnet (6751)
    * Cleo Marcie (6831)
    * Cleo Bella Balconnet Bra (7001)
    * Cleo Lana Balconnet Bra (6981)

    from this summer. I can't say it will work for you, but it might be worth trying one of them atleast.

  • Yeah I do tend to find clothes have too much fabric at the back but the shoulders are normally ok. That makes a huge amount of sense though, I never considered it might not be the bust shape but my shoulders, I just assumed clothing issues were because of my bust. Eureka moment there! Unfortunately Decos just don't seem to work for me, the 28GG/30Gs fit perfectly at first but my boobs tend to settle in the middle and when I'm walking around I just don't feel supported.

    I'll definitely check out those Cleos I've been meaning to try them for a while and the EM S seems like a good option. At least the EM PL seems to be very close to success! Thank you so much for the advice :)

  • I've never found Decos good for support either. :(

    As for the shoulders, it isn't really related to shoulder width, but narrow shoulders usually come with a narrow ribcage as well. I have both, but not all people have. And even when trying on bust-friendly clothes the back part tends to show the difference between body types. Personally both BiuBiu and Urkye works way better for me than Bravissimo/Pepperberry, because they (the Polish brands) are designed for a higher set bust, narrower back and narrower shoulders, though the shoulders are wider on BiuBiu than Urkye.

    Anyway, if nothing else works out or you want more to chose from, this is what I do to all of my bras: http://dressingcurves.blogspot.se/2012/03/alterations-moving-strap-position.html

    And, about the S, consider sizing down from your PL size in it if you need the pads in the PL. It runs a bit more generous in the cup and they don't come with pads.

  • Yeah I absolutely adore BiuBiu :) I'll definitely try that alteration on my collection of moulded bras that all have the same problem when I've got access to a sewing machine

    Yeah I was thinking about that, I'm going to see how the PL wears in, I've been wearing it for a couple of hours without the pads now and weirdly the gaping seems to have gone quite drastically as my boobs have settled better. Thank you so much for your help!

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• 0
  helpful

  It seems like you need to go down a cup size and go up your band size as it is clearly seen from the side that the cups are not covering your breast completely at the top. Also the back looks very tight. So just try may be a couple of smaller cup size and larger band size.

  Updated on May 4, 2013 Flag this

  
  

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    Yeah the band is a bit too tight, annoyingly as I'm a 28 back back and I bought a 30 from EM and the other 30 I bought was absolutely find strangely. I don't know about the cups though? Because if I push the centre gore in with my hand so its flat the cups fit perfectly?

  • As it is said bra fitting is not the science it's an art co I think you should keep trying until you get your perfect fit.

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• 0
  helpful

  The problem with armhole and straps comes from wearing bra with the band being too tight. Band and cup are stretched too much and straps are in very uncomfortable position, digging into your armpits.

  Updated on May 4, 2013 Flag this

  
  

  • Yeah that does make sense. This bra seems to be very tight compared to the other EM I got in exactly the same size that fits perfectly in the back. I'll see if I can dig out an extender and see if that helps.

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