Bra fitting help » Gore won't sit flat.

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Boux Avenue » Tatiana Cotton T-shirt Bra (100151) » 28DD 28:5

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  Do all wires do this? It seems to me it is standing too far out for that to be due to your ribcage shape. You probably need to size up.

  Updated on August 11, 2016 Flag this

  
  

  • All wires on me do this to an extent. Do you mean to size up in the cup or band? Going up to a 30 band means the bra rides up like craaazy and going up in the cup means that the cups would gape massively. Am I right in thinking a sort of unpadded plunge-balcony or balconette would sort this? Like a Freya plunge-balcony? @Boux Avenue only do moulded bras. When I push my gore down I get serious cleavage, but if I went up to a 28E, I would have huge gaping. I suppose my breasts are shaped like a ski-slope side on but look round from the front. My Bratabase fit recomendation is 28F/FF, I would be DROWNED in that. I'm struggling to fill a 28DD.

    P.S have tried an unpadded bra, it was an @Debenhams 28E, the cups were too big but the gore sat about 1mm out. It was almost PERFECT! If I went

    I guess I do have pectus excavatum.
    

  • No, definitely don't get a bigger band, but I really do think you need more cup volume. You don't need to stick with this bra model if it is too tall or wide for you in larger sizes--but you do need to have enough room for your breast tissue. Bras that are too shallow to accommodate the amount of tissue you have at the center, near the gore, may still be too tall or open at the top for you, but that is a shape issue, not a volume one alone.

    I think the fact that bras in your size range are often either padded at the base or very shallow at the center, is what's causing you a lot of fit problems. If you have too much breast mass to fit into the shallow little bit of space behind the padding, the whole bra will stand away from your breast (thus gaping) but this doesn't make it too small necessarily... only unable to sit on you properly! If you are looking for styles which give the bust a little more presence, I would also be careful of "plunge push-up" combinations which really push the breasts laterally inward toward the midline of your body, because in your case, this will tend to push some of your tissue into the hollow of your ribcage, basically hiding the breasts! Instead you might prefer "cakes on a plate" styles that simply give the breasts a vertical boost without attempting to squash them together.

    I would suggest that you look at some of the Cleo and Curvy Kate options in your size range, look at the photos on Bratabase by reviewers close to your size, and try to assess which designs best match your natural breast shape, because these will be the ones that are most likely to work well. Good luck!

  • Yes, the bra is very shallow in the middle and quite tall, the problems may be with the fact that I'm a bit centre-full and the shape of this bra is like a smooth contour. The wires certainly don't match my IMF. They are far shorter than my IMF. I think I might get on better with non-moulded cups. All of Boux Avenue's bras are either two-part moulded balconettes which are too projected for me or plunge bras with insert padding, again, moulded.

    I think I will try some Cleo bras, they seem most similar to my shape. I have pretty much a U shaped IMF. Have you any recommendations?
    

  • I'm hesitant to recommend without a proper understanding of your shape (which is difficult to see in a rigid padded bra like this one) but you do look quite projected, so maybe the Juna if you want foam or really any of the unlined ones are worth a try. Marcie, Lily, etc. I'm thinking you may be in the UK since you tried Boux Ave. and Debenhams so perhaps there is a place you can try several Cleos in a shop without having to order online?

  • Yes,I am in the UK with a nearby Bravissimo. Unfortunately the local Debenhams does not stock 28 bands. I also have l

  • Ohh,I have an unlined bra. Its a Marks and Spences lacy on.e I'll upload a picture of it. Its a 30C but I wear it on the tightest hooks. I'll upload it so you can see my shape.

  • wendybien , check out my profile for a pic of me in an unlined bra.

  • Picture not showing yet - but you really should upload that bra and put several pictures in

  • Check onto my profile, I don't know how to add more pictures.

  • Yes the unlined bra shape seems much more suited to your natural shape, which is quite projected. That M&S one looks like it's not a bad fit on your larger breast although it is a bit empty on the smaller one--you always want to fit the larger side.

    I think you may wish to double check the cup depth measurement though, because 6.7"deep and 5.3" wide would be an almost flat cup, which this is not at all! I'm guessing it is closer to 8" but you would need to remeasure. Try measuring with the cup stretched across your knee, or you can fill it with firmly packed tissue paper to measure more easily.

  • ETA I see the photos where you say you doubt you are projected--well, projection is relative. If you look at other photos of women who wear a 28DD you will see that you have a more projected shape than many of them. To be honest since your tight underbust is closer to 22 your REAL bra size technically would be something more like 24F but sadly that doesn't exist anywhere! So even the 28 band sizes are not a true representation of your shape, more of an approximation.

    I think also that since you have this issue with the pectus excavatum the side view is bound to be quite deceiving, since part of your breast tissue sits on an inward-curved plane instead of a flat one or outward curved one. But anyway... I assure you there is more breast volume there than you are thinking and that is why many of these smaller bras don't fit at all.. there is just not enough room at the inner portion of the breast.

  • wendybien, have remeasured and edited, cup width is 6.8 inches and cup depth is 7.5 inches.

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  if other things fit, you can try bending the wires so they are shaped more like you are

  Updated on August 11, 2016 Flag this

  
  

  • Unfortunately, I have not managed to bend the wires due to my possible severe pectus excavatum and the size of the small gore.

  • MsLollipop1 I have pectus excavatum and I bend the wires all the time to fit my shape. You don't have to bend the whole thing, just the area where it bothers you/isn't fitting right. Also wendybien is right in that a side view is less accurate because of the pectus excavatum. It makes me look less projected then I am and you can't see how far back my chest actually starts unless you're up close because of how bowed out my ribcage is. I also have pectus carinatum, so gores have to be short for me. I'm wondering if taking the band in some will work better too since your UB is quite small.

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  Perhaps try full-banded bras? Full banded bras are ones with fabric below the gore that connects the gore and the wings. See the left side of this diagram; http://i.imgur.com/x1ceImV.png. The reason why I think this might work is that these bras all have a band of elastic on the bottom of them, which means the band pulls on the bottom of the cups across the front, rather than at the sides. I think this will stop it floating up as much, though you'll probably never get a gore that fully tacks due to your ribcage shape, so don't sweat it too much if the bra fits elsewhere.

  Updated on August 11, 2016 Flag this

  

  hugsforyourjugs

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  10 bras

  
  

  • Ah, I tried one of those on. Its gore pretty much tacked. About 1mm out. Unfortunately I couldn't buy it as it was a cup too big. I am seriously struggling to find decent bras. I'm in the UK with House of Fraser, John Lewis and Bravissimo all nearby. I am about a 26 underbust measurement, so would like to look for a small-fitting 28 band.

  • Bravissimo will have the biggest selection of 28s. Looking at your pics I'd say you have a fair amount of projection and slightly tall roots. Based on that I think you should give Cleo Marcie a go. It also has a relatively snug band (I also wear a 26 so I know that feel haha).

  • Looking at the rest of the photos (not all of them showed up originally), I agree with wendybien that you should try a larger volume as well. So I'm doubling down on my Cleo Marcie suggestion, and I think you should try it in 28E (and 28DD too if you can, can't hurt to try it - Boux Avenue's bras are slightly inconsistent cup size wise).

  • Thank you hugsforyourjugs . I'm finding Cleo bras very hard to find. Would Curvy Kate be any good,how does their sizing run and what shapes do they suit? Ps, I really measure as a 26 band.

  • Bravissimo stocks it in 28E, Amazon has it too in DD and E. The reason Curvy Kate bras are cheap and easy to find is because they fit a very particular shape, and are often very narrow in your size range. Plus the bands tend to run more average. By all means, try them if you want to, but it's not likely you will find a good fit imo.

  • hugsforyourjugs , I'm seeing heaps of Freya bras in my size, often very cheap. Do you know if they would suit me and if they would what styles would suit me?

  • Freyas run loose in the band, so you may have to alter them to be tighter, here are some very easy methods: https://www.reddit.com/r/ABraThatFits/wiki/alterations

    As for freya bras... I think the"Patsy"-based half cups (check on the related bras tab, basically any freya half cup with only vertical seams) might be worth a try, though there's a chance they would be too shallow. The Deco Plunge may also be worth a go, though it again could be a shape mismatch (not enough depth at the wire, potentially too narrow. However I think the patsy based half cups especially have a higher chance of working for you than any of curvy kate's bras.

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  It's impossible to diagnose the problem without side angle pictures. It's sort of looks like you need a 28D instead? But can't tell, more pics please!

  Updated on August 11, 2016 Flag this

  
  

  • Give up on this particular bra and try a variety of other 28Ds. Unlike some of the others I think you are shallow, not projected; but even if you are already shallow it's still possible to have a bra that's too shallow for you. I also think this is too big in the cup.

    Also, 30C may not necessarily be easier to find than 28D, but if it is, don't rule it out; many brands such as the Little Bra Company, Calvin Klein, and others run very tight in their small bands. 32B will definitely be easy to find and it won't fit you, but here is a secret: altering a band smaller is absurdly easy and cheap, so don't ever let "the band is too big" stop you from loving a bra that fits otherwise. The alterations person at the bra shop I work at does it for $10, that's probably pretty standard if you're not handy with a sewing machine.

  • Should say that I measure a 26" band, so I don't think I would be able to chop 6" off a bra band.

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    I have a 24" UB and I took in my 30 and 32 bands. You'd be surprised at how easy the alteration is.

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  So, here's the thing - projected is independent of size. YOu have have really big breasts that are less projected and really small breasts that are more projected. What it means is . . how spread out are your breasts. Do you have your volume spread all over your chest, or do your breasts have a fairly small footprint but they do kinda stick out from your body.

  Especially at the bottom and sides - do your breasts gradually curve up? Or do they kinda just out suddenly?

  Updated on August 12, 2016 Flag this

  
  

  • I'm struggling to grasp this concept. I don't understand what you mean by curve up?

    I have checked, they definetely don't stick out. They are very compact. I look pretty much flat chested. But they don't hang down a lot when I bend over braless,like to measure. What's there , is there. I don't really have any back fat or any much to scoop really apart from the tallest bits of my roots. I would say they are shallow and full on the bottom, side on they look like a ski-slope shape. My roots are fairly tall, I think.

  • the picture still hasnt shown up!

  • Go on to my profile and look on the M&S white lace bra.

  • Its finally there! I still think you have some decent lower projection. definitely FOB, you are right. youmight want to do a fit suggestion on that bra - since people can see that actual shape of you better there Clearly the wires fit better on that one.

  • 1

    Ta da! Made a fit suggestion on the other bra. Feel free to check it out.

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  This definitely isn´t your cut. Here is another voice again for Cleo Marcie, sadly it isn´t available in 28DD (I would need that too) so you can try 30D and 28E, but from your description so far I think we are pretty close to being size twins. Check out what fit me, or ask me, I will try to help. We are not shape twins, but I am FOB too. I never quite managed to find out about the projected thing so far.
  You have a Bravissimo Store near you? Heaven! You should absolutely go there. For me, Curvy Kate didn´t work, Freya neither. Cleo so far is my best fitting brand overall, Ewa Michalak and Comexim.

  Updated on August 12, 2016 Flag this

  
  

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