Bra fitting help » Too tall cups? Advice on Polish shapes that might be better please!
Kris Line » Shine Brassiere » 60H 28:11
Issue resolved
shape incompatibility
Original problem
I finally ordered a Kris Line plunge bra to try. I ordered a 28h as all the advice I could find was to go up 1-2 cup sizes in this model. For reference I wear a 28gg in Deco, and my first foray into Polish bras was an EM PL 65gg, which was my best fitting bra when I bought it at 3 months pregnant, but 18 months and a baby later is a bit stretched out (I should have bought a 60 back but didn't want to go custom with my first EM) and the cups are a fraction big with my post BF'ing boobs. The issues with the KL are: I quad out all over the place (particularly at the centre front) and the gore doesn't tack. The cups seem to be too tall as there is a little bit of gaping where the strap meets the top of the cup. The wires are also maybe a smidge wider than what I'm used to.
The pictures I have posted are after 10 minutes of wearing the bra so they've settled into it. I don't think I can go down a cup as the quadding would be ridiculous. If this is a basic shape incompatibility I'm keen to hear suggestions on other Polish shape/sizes that might work - so far I've only tried EM PL. I cannot wear anything with a high gore or too closed in on top.
My boobs have typically been FOT/even, round and firm, although post bf'ing I have lost a little firmness and upper fullness (still very centre full).
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Suggestions (2)
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helpfulWell, technically with this sort of bra, you wouldn't have those gaping/tall outer cup issues IF the boobs were staying in the cups (in a more east-west position) instead of falling out into the center... If that makes any sense. I think you can probably wear a good variety of shapes/cuts as long as every one has adequate cup volume near the gore to contain your inner fullness, and is not so low-cut, preventing the falling-into-middle issue.
Updated on December 9, 2015 Flag this
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Exactly, that is what I'm saying. The shape (projected) and dimensions of your boobs mean that they are always going to want to point forwards and will have a tendency to fall to the center if there is nothing to contain them there. Your EM plunge may look lower cut from the front but it has enough cup height and depth about 2" from the gore to contain more of the tissue on the inner lower quadrant. You need that volume and support right there.
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Ahhh. That is really helpful, thank you wendybien !! Thanks so much - I was a bit fuzzy regarding defining my shape (other than the fullness part) and bra fitters have generally struggled to diagnose fit issues (I live in a part of Australia that is a bit of a desert for bra fitting expertise) and you've just helped me understand a lot more. Thanks again. :-)
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You're welcome! I do my best :-D
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helpfulWell, first of all, softer post-baby breasts might not be able to handle plunges as well - I'm older and bigger and fed 3 babies and I fall out of them - but its not just the softness, either, its also being center-heavy. Plunges dont do such a good job of supporting center heaviness. Not sure thats what I'm seeing, but it is part of why I fall out of bras in the center but have emptiness towards the outside.
Is the perimeter you measured (your boob perimeter) recent? and you only did one - its better to have all three. For me, laying perimeter is closest to cup volume I need.
Anyways, curious what your problem is with high gores? My current favorite bra is the Ewa Michalak S. Its padded, very open on top, but not a plunge. I call it a 'cup-of-boob' because thats what its like, my boob is held in a cup strapped to my chest. I still do fall in towards the center a little bit and have to pull my boobs out towards the outside of the cup about every 2-4 hours, but that doesnt seem too bad.
But i think the bra is also too small.
Updated on December 9, 2015 Flag this
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Thank you for the input, and the suggestion of measuring all 3 boob perimeters - I'll try that. My boobs are a bit softer post bf'ing but I still wouldn't describe them as typically soft (they were unusually firm for natural boobs pre-baby to the extent bra fitters have asked if they are enhanced, and I've only had one bub so they've had an easier run than some mums). I haven't had the falling to the centre problem with my EM plunge at all, despite it's very low gore. The problem I have with high gores is that they stab me in my (very boney) sternum - I've tried Freya, Panache, Cleo, Curvy Kate etc in a variety of sizes and they all cause a lot of pain. Also, I have typically only been able to wear plunges because with my upper/centre fullness I quad out of just about everything. I have considered trying an Ewa S style, my main hesitation being that it does have a higher gore than the PL, but apparently it's still lower than the UK brands? Have you got EM PL and S type bras? Can you comment on whether you find the cups on the S higher or lower than the PL at the outer part of the cup? I'd also LOVE to try Comexim but I have no idea where to start.
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No, sorry, I havent tried a PL. I'm sure if you post asking for Comexim advice you'll get some, we have lots of comexim fans (not me tho)
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Ok, but the east-west position is really unnatural for my boobs, which have always been very close set on my narrow ribcage. I have had the too-tall outer cup issues with other bras that I simply can't wear - Cleo Juna for example - the 28GG was way too small but the 28H was massively tall (and quite wide) at the outer cup and still didn't stop the quad effect (and it is higher cut). I don't have this problem with the EM plunge which is lower cut than the Kris Line, which is why I'm wondering if it's a shape incompatibility issue.