Bra fitting help » Gore too wide?
Freya » Deco Debut Moulded Plunge Bra (1084) » 28GG 28:10
Issue resolved
Shape mismatch
Original problem
So, despite being told by people more experienced than me that plunges probably won't work for my tall, soft, center full shape, I got this bra because I love plunges and it's just too cute.
The main fit issues I'm having are a bit of quadding in the center of the cup (which I expected), and it seeeeems like the gore could be too wide?? I'm not certain. My breasts will sit in it, but I have to sorta swoop them to the side. I can do this comfortably since my tissue isn't super firm or fussy. Without doing so, the gore pokes ever so slightly into/sits on top of my breast tissue. I tried to get a decent picture of this. I'm not sure at what point a gore is considered "too wide", since it still fits pretty well with some adjusting.
I always felt like I had average seperation; braless I can fit two fingers between my breasts. However, I am a little pendulous and, again, fairly soft, so I'm not sure if that would have a misleading effect. Basically, I am VERY bad at judging what's going on with my own boobies and have relied almost entirely on what others have told me, haha.
The bra also slides under my IMF a bit during wear, which other ladies told me is mostly likely due to the cups being either too small or too shallow.
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Suggestions (7)
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helpfulI hate to say this but PSA, it is almost impossible to tell the difference in photos between a bra-wearing person who is center full and a person who is close-set, apart from very extreme cases. When supported by a bra my boobs can look like they have zero separation but in actuality you can fit a good 3/4" of gore in there. In addition, the problems are not mutually exclusive, i.e. for many wearers, many bras may be BOTH too shallow at the center AND too wide at the gore.
To test first for gore width, eliminate the cup depth issue by unhooking the bra or whatever else works to loosen the fit around the cups, and try to see if pressing the gore to the sternum (at the height it would normally be) is possible at all without trapping sensitive breast tissue. If you can do it, this gore width is theoretically OK. If it is always on tissue no matter what you do, it is too wide and this width, with this gore height will never work no matter what you do (most people have more room lower down).
To test for cup shallowness at the center again press the gore to the sternum (wearing bra normally i.e. closed) and check for quadding while properly scooped to the center. If you have to scoop to the sides you know you are lacking room at the center.
Updated on July 8, 2016 Flag this
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Aww thanks! I could write a book on all the beautiful bras I can't fit due to center fullness, so people appreciating my advice is a small consolation...!
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helpfulI kind of wish they would change the breast separation instructions/definition, because yes while the breasts themselves may not touch, the edge of the roots might. When looking at your gore photo, you can see that your breast creases touch in the middle, so you have close breast roots. (Same with me, my breasts point away from each other, but the root grows all the way on the sternum and have about a 1/4" separation.) With this being said, I would say that gore is too wide on you, and you should look for bras with wire channels that touch or overlap.
From the three quarter view photos, there's a bit of empty space at the very bottom edge of the cup. So the cup could be too shallow at the wire, not having enough immediate projection, Or, the wire could be the wrong shape, so the bottom edge of the cup wouldn't follow your roots even if there was enough volume in the bottom of the cup. (For example, the bottom of my breast creases are a bit square, so round wires will never fit me perfectly.) But, I do know that Deco bras are quite shallow at the bottom edge of the cup, so that could be it.
With the top edge of the cup cutting in, and the bottom of the cups being a bit empty due to shallowness, maybe over all the distribution of volume isn't a perfect match for your breast shape. How is the wire width on the sides of your breasts? I know that Freya Deco can be a bit wide and shallow in general (6.1" wide is pretty wide in proportion to the cup depth of 9.6"), so even if you did size up, you might fix the bottom of the cup issue, but also end up with wires too wide and empty cup on the sides.
While there is a bit of either/or that could be causing fit issues, it's great that you can recognize them. Hopefully I helped at least a little bit.
Updated on July 7, 2016 Flag this
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The wires are definitely a bit wide on me. I'd say I'm probably narrow or average width. The closest fit width wise I've had was 14cm, which may have been a smidge too narrow.
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logogriph As suspected. Then rather than sizing up, I definitely suggest looking at brands that focus on more immediate project, and are narrow and more projected in shape overall. :) Ewa Michalak is great for this. A bit difficult to acquire, but usually there are some in the Listings, and if not, you can order directly from their website, or find more local online retailers. For example, there's Bra Obsessed in Canada, and Zathiya in the U.S. (Not sure where you're located.) Some UK brands can occasionally have more narrow and projected shapes, it's just harder to search through.
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Slava-Zone I definitely want to try Ewa at some point, but their sizing in relation to UK sizing is confusing. I have ordered a bra from Comexim that shipped recently, and I'm hoping it will fit :')
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logogriph Luckily, I'm on the smaller end of the spectrum, so my Ewa Michalak size is the same as my UK size (60/28FF). Start by searching Ewa Michalak by your UK size, and look at the measurements off to the left of the bra. Look up and down a cup until you find measurements that match the bra that fits you best. (I see you have one, that's good!) Then what I usually do, is look at the profiles where the bra fit, and see what other bras fit them as well, and compare their breast shape and volume to mine. It's a long journey, but well worth it to have great bras in the end!! :) And I'm glad you're trying Comexim, I hope that works out for you!
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helpfulFrom my understanding separation is determined in a bra or a hand bra at the very least. I appear to be average-very separated without a bra. In a bra however it is clear that I have little to no separation and am very centrefull. You appear to be very centrefull as well. I have less space than you, but you don't exactly have much space between your breasts in a bra.
Updated on July 7, 2016 Flag this
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helpfulYou are not wide set. Separation is definitely determined with support. You're narrow & projected & yes this bra is much too shallow for you. And also too wide. So is the CK one, but this fit check isn't about that lol. If you really want padded bras, you'll do best in Polish ones.
Updated on July 7, 2016 Flag this
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I actually don't want padded bras lmao. I just grabbed the CK Tease Me because it's pretty, and I honestly didn't know the Deco was padded. I'm still figuring out how all this shape business works, but I'm much more comfy in unpadded bras and I realize narrow bras work better for me. As a general rule, however, I just take what I can get when a good sale rolls around and hope for the best lol. Beggars can't be choosers :)
Trying to get a good size guesstimate with the Polish bras is intimidating, since they seem to be all over the place. At least I know even a 28GG UK bra that doesn't "fit" will still be wearable. I have ordered a bra from Comexim, though, but it just shipped yesterday! So, fingers crossed.
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logogriph Maybe something like the Sm Czarna Mgieka in 65G would be good? (60 band looks like it runs small from the measurements added.)
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Hmm, I think I've heard Czarna Mgieka runs shallower in the bottoms of the cups than other SMs. I wouldn't know though, as I haven't tried it!
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That's good to know, that was just one of the first bras that popped up when I did a quick search.
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helpfulWow, what a pretty bra! What I am thinking is that this bra does not allow for as much center fullness as you have. Not necessarily that the gore is too wide, but there is not enough cup near the gore. I often have to pull my breasts out to the side to fit in to bras - i call it a reverse scoop/swoop
Updated on July 7, 2016 Flag this
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helpfulIt seems like you have a similar volume and shape to me (on a smaller ribcage). Like you, I need a 14 cm cup width max...cup depth is a bit fuzzy because of soft tissue, but somewhere north of 26 cm. The difference is, I'm on a 32 band or larger. I also have very very very very (how many verys can I type?) close-set breasts that don't *look* close till you get them in a bra.
Try this: With nothing on, run your finger up your sternum from the bottom of the ribcage up toward your collarbone. Can you feel a little lump of tissue where your breasts connect? If so, you need bras with touching or overlapping wires. In fact, you may do better in a gore where the wires are touching/overlapping but even a teeny-tiny bit *taller* than this, like 3-4 mm. The higher gore will prevent overspill. But you don't want it so high it will cut in--just below where they meet is the ideal point. On me, that's 7 cm exactly.
I find the Ewa S (not SM--no center fullness) and the CHP to fit best, though the wires don't overlap. The Comexim plunges are pretty close but somehow seem to have less center fullness. I haven't had good luck with the Comexim half-cups yet, because the wires are wider.
Updated on July 8, 2016 Flag this
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helpfuli agree with everyone else, your breasts are really close together. I'm close together and center full, and to wear plunges they have to be like nonexistent gores, and enough center projection. I think your problem here is more the gore being too tall than too wide. The wires are technically touching at the top of the gore, so you cant get narrower than that. A well fitting plunge is the most comfy for me, since its the only way wires dont sit on my tissue. idk why people say if you have center full boobs you shouldnt wear plunges lol. If you want a plunge, go EM, everything else is probably too shallow.
Updated on July 8, 2016 Flag this
wendybien , I'm going to bookmark this handy test for determining center full vs close set. Your comments are one of the main reasons I bother to log in. I have to upvote your incredibly helpful feedback!