Bra fitting help » FOB with soft tissue, close set, wide and tall roots

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Cleo » Juna Animal Balconnet Bra (7731) » 32F 32:7

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  Hi @artsgal396! What you have there with the Juna is essentially a single-seam half cup bra: there is one seam going up the middle of the cup. I am guessing that you can't get the wires to stay right up under your boobs (in your inframammary fold), so they slides down your chest wall with time, dig into your stomach, etc. This is because there isn't enough room at the bottom of the cup for your breasts to "rest on" (if you put your hands under your breasts to simulate a bra, I am guessing that your boobs come outward a lot before they start going up). What I'd recommend is a two-seam half-cup bra. These bras have two vertical seams going up from the bottom of the cup and usually allow more "bottom projection".

  Examples include Fantasie Mae, Freya half cups (e.g. https://www.amazon.com/Freya-Womens-Patsy-Padded-Black/dp/B00EM8NIVO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478569816&sr=8-1&keywords=freya%2Bhalf%2Bcup&th=1&psc=1), and Fauve half cups (a retired brand that is still available on amazon https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=fauve+half+cup). Other less accessible but arguably better fits are Polish brands.

  Updated on November 7, 2016 Flag this

  
  

  • janearmena Thank you for the suggestions! I'm an Amazon prime member so hopefully I can find at least one of those to try from there!

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  First let me just say: there's hope!!! I'm sorry you've been striking out, but you'll get there! Promise.

  I do think that you might want to try this bra in a larger cup, because Andorra is a super forgiving bra, so I don't think that a good fit in it is necessarily an indicator that the same size will work for you anywhere else.

  If you compare the depth measurement on the Andorra 32F, you'll see straightaway that it's also bigger than the Juna's 32F -- 9.9 vs. 8.6 average measurements. But given that your laying perimeter is ~11.5", I'd be pretty surprised if you really only need the around-ten inches that the Andorra provides. (You might also get a better shape from Andorra if you sized up a bit, but pointy is not a terribly uncommon complaint about the Andorra.)

  So, my first suggestion is to try a Juna in a 32G and a 32GG, to bring you closer to your laying perimeter. (But I would only do this in a situation where you could get free returns, such as with Amazon Prime, if you're in the USA.)

  Can I also ask how you're finding the wire width in these bras? Are they resting on your tissue, or riding down? The Juna's cups mostly look good at the bottom, but molded cups cover a multitude of sins. If you press against the bottom of the cup, do you feel empty space, or is the wire sitting right under your breast tissue like it should be?

  Updated on November 7, 2016 Flag this

  
  

  • rainbrasspetals Thanks for the encouragement! Yes, I'm pretty sure there is empty space at the bottom of the Juna. I want to post pics of the Cleo Kali and Hettie and panache porcelain on me here without having to start a new post. Is that possible? I think it would help with recommendations.

  • Well, you can add them to your bra collection, add the pictures to them, and then link us to the bra. :) That's probably the easiest way.

  • Anyway, empty space + quadding on top = orange in a glass. Which more or less means you need more "immediate" projection, so that your boobs aren't squished up out of the bottom of the cups.

    As you try more bras, keep an eye on the wire width, and how it encases (or doesn't encase) your tissue. You and I are not shape-matches (I'm narrow and even, but with tall roots, so I often get 'full on top' problems even though I'm not), so I'd almost say to stay away from my faves. :P

    But more photos will definitely be helpful. :)

  • Orange in a glass gets used for that but space at the bottom and quadding can be from too shallow a lower cup, not just wires too narrow which is OIG.

    OP - four reasons for space at the bottom - too shallow, too narrow, wires pushed down at gore or at armpit. If the size is right, and Juna is known to come up stretchy in the band and small in the cup. Can you work out which? So far you've been trying more projected bras, this is more shallow, you say you're FOB and soft tissue, yet tall and wide which would make you shallow. I would look really closely at the relative wire widths you've been trying to get a fix on what the basic problems are and whether you need wide wires or not.

    I personally think your roots aren't that tall and you're more likely wideish and shorter rooted, which means you're projected. The strap gap is most common with short roots, and the overflow with shorter wires doesn't mean your root is tall, it just means you need wider and/or taller wires.

    Freya plunge balconies would be worth a try, there are wider and narrower styles to choose from. Fantasie plunge balconies, also Rebecca, are similar but I don't think any are narrow. Double seamed half cups can be more projected but I wear Freya and Fauve half cups with two seams and I'm pretty shallow (tall and wide) and I think they're still not projected enough at the wire for truly FOB shapes. Polish may well be worth a look, I know little about them.
    

  • joanna1970 i thought OIG was very much about cups not being deep enough and had nothing to do with wire width, so we were making the same shape observations.

    I was asking about how the wires fit the IMF because it's totally possible to need wider wires than Comexim and still be too projected for Juna.

    (Also I've experienced strap gaping too but I promise I have tall roots. I think it depends how severe the gaping is; it looks pretty mild in these photos IMHO.)

  • OIG is definitely about the width of the cups. Just throwing that out there. Picture putting an orange, into a glass, that is too narrow for it. The orange won't go all the way, leaving empty space in the bottom of the cup.

    OIG = cup folding over at wire because of too narrow wires and boobs inability to get all the way into the bottom of the cup.
    Not enough immediate depth = wires are fine, bottom of cup is too shallow.

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    See, my problem is that I was envisioning it differently. I imagined an orange squeezed actually all the way into the glass, not floating on top of it. So there was space both below and _above_ the orange, with the orange being slightly compressed.

    But then, I've had shallow bras make it so that I couldn't get the wire to stay in my IMF even though the wire was actually too wide.

    Learn something new every day...

    I wish there were a catchy name for the issue I'm describing though. :\

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  How commited are you to padded bras? I tend to find unpadded offer more flexibility, a closer fit, and ultimately more support possibilities. Soft cups can wrinkle slightly at the bottom of the cup without pushing the whole band down so the wires are below your IMF as rainbrasspetals discusses. They can also offer more side support and lift when you choose models that attach the strap directly to the bottom part of the cup. Some people don't like them for a variety of reasons, but you might find more success with brands that are famous for their immediate projection and their side support. A warning though, classic side support panels ten to cut into the immedate projection and you may find that too much of a trade off. But brands like Ewa Michalak, Gorsenia, and even Flirtelle might provide you with a combination of good immedate projection and good wing and centre gore height, but fairly narrow centre gores.

  *NB: I have the soft tissue issue myself, and the best thing for it is to find bras with as full a cup as possible so that I can tuck everything in and keep it there. The issue is when you have either FoT or centre fullness, which is my issue, many full cups will still quad. I loved this blog on centre fullness: https://brasticmeasures.wordpress.com/2015/01/04/fit-issues-center-heaviness-is-a-dominant-shape-trait/
  Don't be afraid to try the cup size up. Plus, stretchy lace in the top of the cup is your best friend. The new semi or half padded styles provide the compromise between padded and more forgiving upper cup edges. I usually find that they don't provide me enough immediate projection, but as my hand bra comes so straight out from my chest wall as to almost angle downwards, almost nothing ever does! Maybe you might have more luck?

  Ewa Michalak BM soft cups offer a good side pull to keep the sides, as they put it, inside the sillouette of the body. They tend to have widely set straps and narrow-ish wires, so I don't know if either or those issues would be a problem for you, but they do tend to fit a lot of women who who struggle with immedate or bottom projection. If you want to try padded bras, Ewa Michalak's CHPs which have two vertical seams as janearmena recommends. As to size, their bands run a little tight, so you definitely want a 70 or maybe even a 75. As to cups, I find they run on the smaller side, the padded cups are usually one cup smaller than the soft cups, and given your measurements I'd probably go for a 70FF/75F in soft and a 70G/75FF in paddded.

  Gorsenia is another fairly easily accessible Polish brand that offers good basic support bras in a wide variety or colour, material, and decorative options. Most of the soft cups follow one essential pattern which is medium cup width, great immediate projection, fairly sturdy wings and gore with reasonable straps set a medium distance appart. If you find one Gorsenia that fits, you can be fairly sure that all of the similar styles will fit too. As to sizing, Gorsenia has fairly loose bands so you probably want a 32(70). Their cups tend to run bigger, especially if you don't have much FoT, so I'd go with the 7 which is a G. You may even prefer a 65H, but you decide how you prefer your bands.

  Flirtelle is related to Curvy Kate and has the same fit style, so most people need to cup size up. However, Flirtelle tends to have slightly more narrow wires, a looser band, and totally different construction styles than CK. They are not especially good at the side support, but you may find that if the shape of the bra fits you, you don't need as much side support. I like the Ellie best myself, but the Rosie, Giselle, Mia, and Peacock all have similar constructions for slightly different shapes. I'd try the 32FF and keep an eye out for the "upsidedown seven" shape phenom that you can find described in a number of good blogs.

  Also, I think the Cleo Marcie is worth retrying in a 32F or so. You might also try the CK Ellace, Dreamcatcher, or Bardot in a 32FF. Keep on trucking! You'll find something eventually! Good hunting!
  

  Updated on November 8, 2016 Flag this

  
  

  • maddy2596 thanks for the suggestions! I'm still learning so can you explain what you mean by immediate projection? Are you meaning that the bra brings boobs front and center or gives a rounded shape? I hate the pointy look on myself so need suggestions of bras to try that don't give that look!

  • Immediate projection refers to the angle breast makes from your chest wall at the bottom of the cup. Most bras, especially padded ones, ten to come out from the body in a fairly steady but shallow angle. Something like 30 degrees. "Immediate projection" usually means something more like a 60 degree angle. My personal problem is that i genuinely believe that I have a 90 degree angle.

    How you know if you have an immedate projection angle that is steeper than the bra you are wearing is if there is space between your IMF line (the crease under your breasts and there natural "root" line. and where the bra's underwire sit. If the bra has too steep an angle for your shallower breasts, you feel like your cups are too big because you sink all the way to the bottom, but they still feel like they are falling down through the day no matter how tight your straps are. The opposite problem is best seen in a padded bra because after several wears, it develops a permanent crease in the bottom of the cup close to the underwire. In unpadded and padded, what happens when the bra angle is not steep enough for you is that your whole band and underwires get pushed down your torso in order for there be enough space in the cup for all your breast tissue. The problem with soft tissue is that its flexibility can hide this as it just sort of puddles upward instead of firmly pushing the badly fitting bra down. As you indicated that this cup size seems to be correct, but there still feels like there is empty space at the bottom of the cup, you probably have a steeper immediate projection angle than this bra. Looking at your Kali pics, itis really really clear by the wrinkling at the bottom of the cup near the underwire.

    What you need is a bra with a steeper angle near the bottom of the cup so that all of your tissue can comfortably sink into the bottom of the cup and sit where it is supposed to in the cup. Polish brands in general tend to have this steeper angle and are this called more immediately projected. I think you will be surprised by the lift you get when you find a bra that has enough immediate projection for you.

    Hope that doesn't just comfuse you even more!

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  Oh my gosh! Different frame but similar breast shape/description. I wish I could tell you a great solution but I am still in process. My favourite bra and most comfortable, with a nice shape, has been Nessa Frida push up. It pulls my girls in and up. I haven't tried other Nessa bras but they appear to be a similar cut. Fauve, I have heard, is similar to Nessa. Wishing you all the best on your search. If you find a good bra, please let us know!

  Updated on November 8, 2016 Flag this

  
  

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  Specifically for Juna. I found it doesn't allow a lot of room for inner fullness. I am not sure of that is why I find the boobs escape out the side on me too. The gore irritates me as it comes up too high and rests on tissue. I also find it is either too loose or quads when I scoop and swoop. I think I read somewhere that Juna is better for firmer tissue and even/top fullness. Having said that, from the pics, it looks pretty on you.

  Updated on November 8, 2016 Flag this

  
  

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  rainbrasspetals janearmena maddy2596 Denise5
  Here's the link to my pictures in the Cleo Kali ...... http://www.bratabase.com/bra/dijz7/

  Updated on November 8, 2016 Flag this

  
  

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