Bra fitting help » Gore doesn't tack firmly, boobs are almost quadding, but maybe it fits?
Ewa Michalak » Sm Kankan (771) » 75JJ 34:14
Issue resolved
As it turns out, Ewa Michalak's SM cut is not the one for me. At 75JJ/K, the bra doesn't have enough immediate projection for me and doesn't suit my center fullness.
Based on help I got from the community, I'm going to try the Ewa Michalak SF cut.
Original problem
I think this bra almost fits, but the gore doesn't tack firmly and I'm verging on quad boob. The band is very firm, but almost comfortable.
(I bought it because I was verging on quad boob with the SM Triumf in 75J, so I wanted to size up. But the 75JJ KanKan fits just like the 75J Triumf.
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Should I call this good enough? Try a 75K? An 80JJ? An extender? Wait for a 75JJ Triumf on eBay? Do I give up on the SM and try the BM instead?
(I worry about in-cup quadding with the BM. Stretch lace does not like my boobs!)
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Suggestions (5)
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4
helpful
Oh, I would totally go up to a 75K, unless you find that an extender solves every single one of these problems.. Per photo #3 you aren't "almost" quadding there at the center, you're actually quadding--the girls are fighting this bra, and will eventually win and make a bid for freedom as the day wears on. In such a low-coverage bra I would want my gore to tack firmly (and I sport a mere 9.5" perimeter now... back when I was 12.5 or 13" around I would MOST DEFINITELY have wanted to get a real tack). The key to feeling comfortable and secure in a very low coverage foundation garment is for everything to fit--unless you're using double sided tape to keep it on you
Updated on August 31, 2017 Flag this
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3
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I see quad in one of your photos too and the gore is being pushed out because the cup is too small. It will be uncomfy to wear all day I am sure as the wire and band should be doing most of the work and I bet the straps are doing more than they should now. I agree with wendybien - you want a tack at your breast volume.
Updated on August 31, 2017 Flag this
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Thank you! This is really valuable advice. You've saved me a lot of time and shipping costs!!
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No problem! I really love my BM but gosh golly it is a soft fit compared to Ewa's other styles as it has the stretch lace. Glad to help plus she has so manyyyy cute SM bras ;)
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Do you feel safe and supported in this bra? Does it hurt? If you feel good I would not skip a bra because the gore does not completely tack. I would try one or two hooks of an extender anyway because Ewas wires tend to stretch when you wear the band tight and you loose some volume in the cup. If the band stays in place with extender it is still tight enough. This could help the fit. Anyway Ewas bras are ment to be worn almost quadding when you look at her shop pictures
Updated on August 30, 2017 Flag this
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2
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I vaguely remember someone pointing out that around this size break, Ewa changes from 3 to 4 panels but does not really go up in volume - I'm wondering if you caught that spot?
Updated on August 31, 2017 Flag this
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She's already over that by a size. 75J would be the first one with a 4 part cup, so 75HH to 75J is where there isn't much volume change. I think that the issue here is just that the Triumf is a much taller cup than the Kankan
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kermitdafrog21 according to her measurements they both have the same cup depth. I think Ewas just don't increase much in depth when you get to the larger cup sizes. Instead they get taller and taller.
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I can re-measure just to be absolutely sure, but the "smaller" Triumf and the KanKan did seem to have the same cup depth. I've ordered a 75K Kankan to try, and I'll let you guys know how that compares.
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You have a lot of projection at the bottom and center of your bustline, and SM cuts are not geared for this shape of breast. They are shallower at the bottom of the cup and your breasts look like they need more of an "L" (lower bar of the L being more projection at the wire) than a "/" (the cup is dropping only about 45 degrees from the wire, whereas an L shaped cup drops about 90 degrees from the wire), so because you need more immediate (L) projection at the wire, your tissue is naturally going to push the gore away from your sternum because there isn't enough room for your tissue to settle in the cup where it needs to be. At the end of the day, you have to wear it, but I think the BM and SF cups would be better suited for your shape. Going up to a K is going to make the cup wider, and your tissue is going to start to settle into the empty space at your armpits and you will most likely have too much fabric at the top- so it's going to be too big and too small all at the same time.
Updated on September 2, 2017 Flag this
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Thank you so much! These are some really helpful insights. I definitely don't want to end up with wires that are too wide! One of the best things about EM bras for me is the relief from the stabby armpit wires I'm so (miserably) used to.
What do you think about the feedback I got that the BM will be a softer fit at my breast volume and that I might get less support/more bounce?
I'm also worried about wearing anything with stretch lace since I have such soft tissue. The in-cup quadding that I get in the Curvy Kate Ellace, for example, is so severe as to make it unwearable. (It would show under a heavy winter coat! :) )
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Since you have soft tissue- I'd go for the SF cup. It uses the same wire as the BM cup, but has more stabilized fabric which should help you. The BM Lace cup is reinforced with non-stretch tulle on the back, so it offers more support than say, the BM Tulipan/Perla etc. So, I classify them as BM Light, then BM medium (for support) would be the Lace lined styles (Apricot, Kleks, Grace) followed by SF (Gladzioch Bez, Czarny) then the mother of all supports, FB (which you do not need but that's my line of gradual support). For an all-day bra, I'd definitely say the SF. If you were looking for something more fun and flirty but still fitting but only wear for say, 4-6 hours (more fashion than form), then a BM lace lined might be just the thing.
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Confession time, saltyblackbroad . I already had the KanKan in 75K on the way from Levana Bratique when you warned me against it.
You were spot on about the 75K having the too much fabric at the top of the cups and about my tissue starting to settle into extra (unnecessary) space created by the wider cup. It did seem to have just enough added depth to give me a firmly tacking gore, but that is cold comfort. :)
I'm going to try the SF style for my next adventure. (I'm also considering one of the classic demis from Wellfitting). Thank you so much for your help!
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Haha, confession! Your honesty is well respected! I was pretty sure by the fit issues you were having with the JJ were only going to get worse with the K- but I think you will be pleasantly surprised with the SF cup. Please keep me posted!
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And PS, the BM lace will be a much softer fit and at your breast volume the SM will be a firmer fit. Even at my volume I get a little bounce in a BM so I would not recommend it for the support you need.