Bra fitting help » Band a little tight, not in inframammary fold, scratchy material
Freya » Patsy Padded Half Cup Bra (1223) » 32F 32:7
Issue resolved
Added a band extender, band was too tight causing the underwire to fall down under inframmamary fold.
Original problem
This is one of the first well fitting bras I've owned, but I do have concerns. I'm new to this so though it feels like a pretty good fit I'm not sure if it actually does for properly. The band feels a little too snug, but I'm used to wearing 36D's so i could just not be used to it. Secondly, I'm not sure if it's sitting in the inframammary fold. It kind of feels like I have to keep pulling it up, but I'm not sure why. Lastly, the material is scratchy as hell. I'm used to softer bras, is there any way to soften the fabric so it feels less scratchy and/or are there any bras similar to this that are softer?
Also, wanted to note that one of my breasts is quite a bit larger than the other, possible by half a cup at least, so one boob is almost quadboobing and the other has a slight gap, any way to fix this?
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Suggestions (2)
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helpfulJust because the measurements say it should be alright doesn't mean that the band is alright. If you can, try an extender, you should have a little extra stretch beyond your comfortable measurement because if the further the band stretches is your comfortable measurement, this means that you can't stretch the band any further, and you should be able to pull the band about 2 inches away from you. Additionally, your cup is distorted, which it shouldn't be on a well fitting band. My bras were always falling down when I wore a too tight band because my narrowest point on my torso is 2 inches below my breasts, this is definitely a sign if you keep needing to pull it back up. LISTEN TO YOUR BODY. Bra fitting is an art not a science. Perhaps you'd do better in a 34 than a 32, everyone's different in their preference of bra fit.
Updated on June 15, 2014 Flag this
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I tried a bra extender which helped so much, thanks for the suggestion. I'll probably end up returning the bra anyway, the cups seem a bit too wide for me and I get a lot of chafing in my armpits which I can't deal with.
chromae, I actually feel like the band is tighter at the bottom than it is at the top, it feels fine at the top but is digging in at the bottom so you may be correct. I'll definitely try hooking it the way you suggested to see if it helps.
Thanks so much for the advice, everyone!
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helpfulBy measurements (I'm assuming you've put in your comfortable ribcage measurement as the stretched band measurement?) the 32 looks like it should be an ok band size for you. And it's difficult to tell from the photos, with the bra being black, but it looks like the wires aren't distorting, so the band looks ok and really it's all going to come down to your comfort level. If you're finding the 32 too tight, try adding an extender or wearing a 34 (provided the latter doesn't ride up).
However, I suspect the cup isn't quite the right size for you, which would be contributing to the band feeling tight. In the first, fourth and last photos, it looks like the gore is trying to tack but can't quite -- is this because the gore is too wide for you? It looks like the wire is sitting on breast tissue of your larger breast, and I suspect you need a larger cup size to accommodate that breast. I know some women prefer to fit halfway between the larger and smaller breast, but you'll get a better fit if you get the cupsize for the larger breast perfect and then pad or tighten the strap on the smaller breast; otherwise the larger breast will fight with the underwires, trying to shift them out of the way, and you'll end up with band movement which can pinch and irritate.
I notice on your profile you've listed both this bra and a 34F Freya longline halfcup as fitting perfectly, but the two bras have the same shape/cut and the longline has a larger cup volume than this bra. I think you need a 32FF in this one.
If you find that sizing up in the cup doesn't solve your problem of feeling like you need to keep tugging the bra up, then I'd be inclined to suspect you have more projection than the bra allows you. I'm not particularly experienced with the Freya half-cups, but they're often recommended for those with shallow shapes, so it's possible you need something with more immediate projection. In which case perhaps try an unlined Freya - the Patsy comes in a plunge balcony version which may possibly suit your shape better?
Updated on June 14, 2014 Flag this
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I actually initially tried the 32FF because the calculator put me between 32F/FF. But on the FF there was major gaping. The band still felt too tight on that one too, though, so I'm inclined to think the 32 band isn't actually too tight, (considering my measurements it really shouldn't be) since the cup was large enough, I think I'm just not used to it being so snug. The 32FF was way too big for my smaller breast, and slightly too big for the larger one, whereas in the 32F, it's slightly too big for my smaller and slightly too small for my larger. I do have an extender on it's way, which I'll pair with this bra to see if it helps alleviate any of these problems. The gore does seem slightly wide for me, as well as little bit too tall. It stays tacked for the most part, but there's a bit of discomfort involved, and I think that's part of the reason I feel like I have to keep adjusting the bra.
As far as the Freya Longline goes, it does feel a bit more comfortable than this bra, but the cups seem a bit too big (either that, or a shape incompatibility). It gapes on both my breasts at the top if I move around too much.
I thought I had a shallow shape, but maybe not. I'll check out the unlined plunge. So you think I should try that in the 32F or FF?
Edit: I also have concerns that part of the problem is the fact that I've never had a bra that came close to fitting me properly so some of the discomfort I'm experiencing is just because I'm unused to these feelings? I'm not sure where exactly the underwire is supposed to sit, or how tight the straps should be, or even if I'm scooping and swooping properly. If I ignore the annoying material of the Patsy, it feels pretty great most of the time. Maybe I feel like I have to tug it up and down because I'm not used to bras actually sitting in the inframammary fold? It's all so confusing.
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H'm. In that case the 32 "shouldn't" be too tight, but humans come in variations that the numbers just can't accommodate, so go with what feels comfortable. I'd try adding an extender -- even just one extra column of hooks can make a world of difference. It could just be a case of needing to get through the initial breaking-in period. (If you find yourself wanting the entire length of the extender, you're probably safe to size up to the 34.)
The whole world of properly-fitted bras is all very confusing to start with! I've been at this since February, and I'm still confused and lost. There are tutorials on the web for how to swoop and scoop; I used to be more religious about it, but these days I mostly just bend forward and jiggle to put my bra on, then do a quick swoop under my arms forward. I find if I sc/woop too much, I end up with stretchy skin scooped in and then the bra pinches me all day.
If the 32FF was gaping on both breasts, I think the 32F is the right size for you in this bra, and the problems you're experiencing are to do with shape incompatability. You actually don't look particularly shallow to me, at least in this bra; I'd say you have average projection. The problem with the gore could then just be that it's too wide for you. Although I note that you've put down you have separate breasts, so I'm not entirely confident of that (especially since in the photos of your longline, the gore is sitting much nicer. Perhaps the shape incompatability or the band feeling too tight is causing the gore to twist.)
I'd suggest you try one of Freya's balcony bras. I don't have any experience with Patsy, but I find the Gem a good cut for me. Arabella is good for full on bottom breasts, but can be a bit deep; the Morning Meadow/Let's Twist Again cut family are similar to Arabella but a bit less deep and a bit more closed on top. I'd try the 32F and the 32FF if at all possible, but you're probably safe to start with the 32F: their balcony cuts run deeper and narrower than their padded half-cups.
I'd actually also suggest you try the Cleo Lucy and/or Marcie. Lucy if you think you're full on bottom or even, Marcie seems to suit pretty much everyone. Both of those I'd try in the 32F or 34E (the Marcie in particular is famed for running very tight in the band, and Cleo tend to run tighter than Freya; so if you try the 32 definitely have an extender, since you're finding Freya's 32 tight). Although Freya's wires look really good for you in this shot, so Lucy/Marcie might be too wide for you.
Also, it's worth noting that aside from it not feeling quite right, this bra looks really good on you :) So you're definitely on the right track and just need to find that dream shape.
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After wearing the longline all day, I've discovered the major problem that I've been having with both of the bras - they're too wide. The underwire is fine, perfect, actually,, but the cups/straps keep cutting into my armpits and it's really uncomfortable. Which makes me sad, because I really like both of the bras, but that isn't something that can be helped with an extender. :( I do have an extender and a Cleo Lucy on the way though, so hopefully that'll work out a little better.
As far as the gore goes, at my closest I'd say my breasts are a little under an inch apart. I'm not sure if that's far enough to qualify as separate. You're right that the longline gore suits me better. I've found a lot less of a problem with that one than the Patsy, so it could be because of the band. .
Well, at least I'm not alone in feeling confused! There are just so many factors to consider in all of this.
Thanks! I really like the look of it too, just wish it were a bit more comfortable. You've been very helpful, though, thanks so much! :)
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I remember hearing that as you get closer to your correct size, shape becomes more important than the actual size in getting a proper fit, and I've certainly found it plays a huge part!
If you're finding the cups/straps cutting into your armpits, it makes me think that perhaps the halfcups are too shallow for you, and to get the right depth you've ended up with too much cup, as it were. Which makes me think the Lucy will fit better in that sense: it will have wires about the same width as the half-cup, but more immediate projection for you.
Good luck!
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Just got the Lucy - it fits perfectly! The band is really tight (Doea Cleo run small in the band?), but luckily I purchased an extender at the same time, and paired with it, it's a much better fit than either Freya. Thanks for your help!
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Cleo definitely run tighter than Freya - a lot of people wear the next band size up in Cleo compared to their Freya band size.
I'm so glad the Lucy fits better! I find it a comfy everyday sort of bra.
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Just wanted to agree with this comment.
It's hard to tell because of the angles of your photos, but it looks like you might have a bit of a conical back / flared ribcage. If that's true, the 32 might fit at the bottom of the band, but feel very snug at the top of the band. (For instance, I measure 37" at my armpit / high bust, but my usual ribcage measure is between 32" and 33".) I agree that an extender could help you figure it out, and if something like that is true for you, maybe try a 34 and fasten the top on the last hook and the bottom on the middle hook?