Bra fitting help » Strap digging where it connects to cup, underwires rubbing
Elomi » Hermione Bandless Moulded Bra (8120) » 40F 40:7
Issue resolved
Looking for styles that fit better and will still probably do some alterations.
Original problem
This bra is actually a little big (Caitlyn 38FF is a better fit), but it has issues I'm having with every bra I've tried so far.
A) When sitting with my arms up (ie: all day at work!) or reaching for the left with my right arm & vice versa, the very top of the cup and the strap where it attaches cuts painfully into my arm & armpit.
B) The underwire digs/ rubs into my ribs where it curves from the front to the side.
C) Underwire jabbing either the side, armpit, or the inside of my arm itself.
D) When I put the bra on, the underwire is snug against the root of my breast. But after a while it slides down just a little, so I can fit a finger between the root and the wire. I thought this was a 'band too big' issue but it also happened with the 38FF (albeit not as much).
I'm petite (5') AND plus-size, so I'm really having trouble figuring out if these are style issues, plus-size issues, or the usual "cloths designed for taller people" issues exacerbated by the nature of bras (rolled pants hems may look frumpy but they don't hurt
).
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Suggestions (3)
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Honestly, if you have a shorter torso and/or your boobs are higher set, and you are more circular in cross-section than a flattened ellipse (so you have more body depth than most bra/clothing manufacturers think will happen with your circumference), you will always have this problem (until the bra companies wake the *$%# up).
The only solution is to learn how to alter and move your straps inward. Or hope you fit into certain styles with closer-set straps.
The closer-set straps don't always completely solve the problem, but they do help. Sometimes you have to take a "bite" out of the fabric that hits that inner corner of your front underarm crease. That can mess with the structural support of some bras, though.
Sorry, I'm kind of useless with the solution thing. I've given up on altering anything and am just on a search for a bra that is "good enough." At the moment (for me) that's Panache bras in a cup size that is slightly too small.
Updated on September 3, 2013 Flag this
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At this point, I won't alter anything unless I'm committed to keeping it for myself and/or selling through here as is (altered).
You could always baste the alteration, if it's just a foldover fabric kind of thing, but when it comes to straps, you'll probably have to pin it to make it more sturdy.
Straps set closer brands? Nope. (LOL)
Sorry, I'm just so over the whole wideset strap thing that I've mostly given up (for myself) because I also have short boobs (which from your pics above looks like you might, too) and that just makes everything even harder to find.
So. There are brands that have some styles with closer set straps: Chantelle, Elomi, + Anita are the only ones that I've seen/tried on in person. I'm sure there are others.
I wholeheartedly recommend Chantelle to anyone who fits into their size range and it looks like you do, so go find some to try on. :D
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I second drownedsalad you'll be forced to settle for "good enough". I've had somewhat better luck going with a larger band/smaller cup, but that's not really ideal, and you can only go so far before you're not supporting the weight properly. If you're high set AND petite, full coverage will show in just about every neckline, but the straps won't rub, so I chose comfort over fashion....but, that depends on the clothing styles that you wear as to whether that will be the right choice for you.
I have HEARD that Comexim is a good option for those of us with the round chest and petite frame (or at least a narrow and petite frame). Supposedly it's got some customizations as well, but I haven't personally ordered from them....yet. I'm waiting until after I finish my pregnancy/breastfeeding before I get too excited about purchasing a bra that's not suitable for BF.
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Ok, I think that you need less of a full cup style. I would try a half cup where the strap starts lower on the bra and the cup isn't so high up, that should alleviate the fact it's rubbing. I would also suggest narrower wires, hopefully that would stop the wires from poking on the sides. I also think that getting a shorter cup would help with the bra sliding down throughout the day. I'm going to suggest some bras with links, hopefully some of this helps!!
I haven't tried these bras, but I'm mainly looking for bras that are flatter across the top rather than having a triangular or tear shape. http://www.celebrarlingerie.co.uk/just-arrived/tutti-rouge-frankie-balconette-bra-celtut-fr.asp http://www.belle-lingerie.co.uk/2969/Masquerade/6426-Masquerade-Capella-Moulded-Bra-HALF-PRICE/ (be careful, this one has a tight band, so you may need an extender) http://www.belle-lingerie.co.uk/2920/Cleo-by-Panache/6981-Cleo-by-Panache-Lana-Balcony-Bra/ http://www.belle-lingerie.co.uk/3039/Gossard/8561-Gossard-Oriental-Bloom-Longline-Balcony-Bra/ (this one the strap connects further away from the armpit, so this should also help with the rubbing) Let me know if this doesn't make sense, you want shorter cups with the strap connecting closer to you nip, rather than high up and creating a triangle. Also narrow wires.
and THIS one, I hardcore want this bra but it's not made in my size, but I think it may suit you as well, especially since freya is know for having narrower wires http://www.belle-lingerie.co.uk/2116/Freya/1143-Freya-Daphne-Padded-Half-Cup-Bra-HALF-PRICE/Updated on September 2, 2013 Flag this
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Thanks. I got a chance to try some half-cups / balconette styles at Nordstroms. Cleo Marcie (same cut as Lana), Cleo Ellis, Panache Jasmine aaaaand Freya Patsy, which is the same cut as the Daphne.
It was a mixed bag. With this style I'm having problems on the 'plus size' end of the spectrum: since they are lower, they aren't holding everything in = boobage spilling out the side. So on the Cleos and Panache I was getting poked in the boob instead of the arm/armpit/ribs. :(
The Freya Patsy, on the other hand... well, easily the most comfortable bra I've tried on so far. No poking! At all! And for the first time it really felt like the band was doing all the heavy lifting. The straps were falling off, but I'd MUCH rather have that than digging!
Alas... there a serious east/west thing going on and the effect was... well it was not good. It looks like they have another style/cut of padded half-cup (Lauren, Erin, Tartan, etc) that's has a deeper cup which I want to try.
If in the meantime anyone who's familiar with Freya wants to offer suggestions, I'm all ears...
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With the underwire jabbing you, bending the wires gently with your hands may help- I've had some success with it: http://brasihate.blogspot.com/2012/01/what-to-do-with-those-pesky-wide.html
It's best suited to non-molded bras, but spacer fabric might do okay since it's more forgiving.
You can also try it with your other bras if they otherwise frustrate you.Updated on September 3, 2013 Flag this
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Thanks, this is actually something I'm planning to do, once I've tried out some other styles & brands, and found something I can commit to. Right now this is the only bra that's t-shirt friendly, so as soon as I find something better, it's getting listed.
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I think the cup design is wrong for you. Elomi has a rather round, wide wire with a flattish bottom - the wire under your arm is more or less a portion of a 2/3 circle and is angling back to your front (like a "C").
I think you may benefit by wires shaped like most of Parisa Fe's bras - the PT1025, PT1037, or PT1027 for example. The wires angle more to the back and don't hook forward. Also, your root is not filling out the cup, another indicator the wire is not the best design for you.
The Hermione is a lower gore but not technically a plunge; I think you may also benefit from a plunge style because the gore *may* be lower. Also, look for styles with lower wires/band seams.
You may also check the tension on the band. If you feel one half of the band is tighter than the other (top/bottom) you may consider altering the band to equalize tension. Sometimes it can make a big and positive difference in fit in the cups, and make your band more comfortable.
Finally, you may need to alter the straps since you are 5' tall.
Good luck!
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Hmmmmm yes I was afraid of that.
Actually I don't mind the idea of altering the straps so much. I just want to make sure that's the best option, that there isn't something I've overlooked. I don't want to spent $40 - $70 on a bra, alter it, and then find out that brand X was a perfect fit all along. Although I guess you can always move the straps back to their original spot? (vs. bending the wire, which seems to be a bit more... permanent.)
Ironically, I was thinking of the "bite" thing, too. I wonder if they can be safety-clipped first for a trial run?
Have you found brands/styles that have the straps set closer?