Bra fitting help » cups too small, gore doesn't tack, band rides up, straps slip off

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Panache » Jasmine Balconnet Bra (6951) » 28H 28:11

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Suggestions (3)

• 1
  helpful

  I know you said you swooped and scooped, but to clarify: are you pulling the cups around your breasts as high as they can go? (This may be difficult since you say you are high set.) It looks as though your breasts are not in the base of the cups, do they "start" there, then the bra slides down? From the pictures, it looks like you need more immediate projection (at the wire), though this could also be an issue of the cups not being the correct size.

  Updated on May 26, 2020 Flag this

  
  

  • So, I do start out pulling them up as much as possible. They do start there, but after pretty much any movement the whole bra moves around. I do notice that the swoop and scoop makes the bra extremely tight (the band and the cup). However, I have tried twisting the bra around with the cups down and the band feels perfectly fine ... as long as I don't try and put my breasts in the cup. If I do, the cups shift downward and the band riding up : /
    They shift down a lot in the Jasmine 28HH, but I had to move the straps in on that one because it was very wide. This bra is my best fitting bra... which says a lot lol.

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• 1
  helpful

  I think that you are on track with too small cups. The band is a good length but affected by the too small cups. Balcony bras tend to have the straps hanging off your shoulders if you have a slim frame - stay away from the balcony design in this case. Also, the balcony cut does not give you enough projection and is too wide for your breast tissue. The cups are asking your breast tissue to squish and wrap into your sides. Not flattering! Just because to breast depth measurement appears to fit does not mean that it is suited for your breast tissue.

  Shape mismatch - time to move one to a narrow, nicely projected bra. Too bad as the print was rather fun!

  Updated on May 28, 2020 Flag this

  
  

  • Yeah, I'm definitely feeling the wires on this. They are probably the best fit in wires I've had so far, but clearly that's not saying much. I tried the Jasmine in 28HH but the wires were insanely wide on me for they were right at the end of my arm pits. I also found that while it was bigger and roomier I still was getting compression of my breasts at the front and center of the gore and lots of side spillage despite the wires being too wide and very much containing my boobs- at least in a lateral sense (but not vertically).
    Should I go up a size? Or would narrower and more projected bras in a different 28H solve the problem? Cause when I was wearing it I could swear it felt 2 sizes too small, but I'm not exactly keen on being that far up the bra alphabet- it limits your choices.
    And it may sound silly, but I just don't "feel" like a 28J you know? I know they are just numbers but... I feel like there's stigma attached to it. and they are a bit harder to come by.
    I guess my only options at this point would be Ewa or Comexim or other polish bras?
    Thanks for the input.

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• 0
  helpful

  I'm going to go against the current here and say that this bra looks too big in the cup and too small in the band.
  It also looks like a shape mismatch due to you having narrow roots, but remeasuring and trying a different size may fix the issue.

  Question:
  1) When you take your breast perimeter measurements, are you measuring from your side, or from your breast tissue root? Make sure you are measuring from your root, even if its at the front of your chest and not the side.
  2) If you hold the bra on your chest with your boobs in the cups, but without the band around you, how does it feel/look? Is there a lot of wrinkling? do the wires line up with your tissue, or are they still a little wide?

  Really study your breast tissue. You mention you're fairly even, round, and self supported. You mention spillage on both sides - that sounds like a prominent tail of Spence and center heavy tissue. Don't worry about trying to fit your tail of Spence into a cup - that can be minimized by swooping and scooping, adjusting wing height, strap location, cup projection, and openness on top. Projection wise - you can be immediately projected (at the IMF) without feeling pendulous. You can also be projected with shallow top tissue, which looks like the case here. (I have a similar shape)

  Things to think about:
  Size up in the band. If a band is too tight, it will often try to slide down your torso - this would explain why it shifts when you move around and why your wires don't remain in the IMF. It also appears to be pulling the wires too far to the side of your chest, reducing the cup projection, and forcing your boobs to squish.

  Size down in the cups. ABTF notoriously gives too big of a cup recommendation for breast shapes like yours and mine. Remeasure your breast tissue perimeter, being sure to only measure from root to root, and not extending on to your torso. I'm betting you'll get something a little lower.

  Look for narrower wires. I am *guessing* based on your pictures here that you'll want a cup width closer to 5.5". This, paired with a looser band, should keep the wires cupping your tissue exactly where they should.

  The combination of these 3 (band up, cup down, narrower wires) will also help position the straps better, so they're not digging into your armpits or on the verge of falling off.

  Final thought - look for a plunge style. It looks like you have close set tissue, and center heavy boobs (I have the same), and a lower gore will avoid compressing/spilling at the center there.

  Updated on June 26, 2020 Flag this

  
  

  • 2

    Thank you for your detailed suggestions! I forgot to mark this as resolved. So, for me I ended up sizing up 2 cup sizes and kept the same band size. I have bras in a higher band size and lower cup size, and those fit even worse. I got much less wrinkling in higher cup sizes. That seems counter-intuitive but then I realized it was just because a lot of my breast tissue was being squeezed out of the cup. I don't have a prominent tail of spence at all. It really is just breast tissue that gets pushed under into my arm pits lol. However, you were definitely right about being close-set, center-heavy and needing a plunge bra. Balconettes just don't work that well. And another interesting point was: when I went up the two cups the straps finally stopped slipping off my shoulders! It's great!! My measurements went up too, frankly very annoying, but glad my (singular) bra fits better.

  • Well there ya go! I'm glad you found something that works better!

  • Just had a thought - your comments sound like you're describing the "orange in a glass" effect. There are various adventures on Bratabase, blog posts and reddit posts on this effect (cup appears too big but is actually too small due to a mismatch of shapes). Hopefully that helps!

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