Bra fitting help » Too big on the smaller side
Wacoal » Halo Lace Underwire Bra (851205) » 32DD 32:5
Issue resolved
I did go ahead and try the sister size for the larger band.... unfortunately the dimensions of lots of other things changed and it isn't even close to a fit. Thank you all for the suggestions on alterations and whatnot. Very appreciated.
Original problem
I got a shipment of 8 bras this week. All were DD or DDD. All but this were too big (honestly guys, I am reaching into those bigger sizes. They just don't fit). This one seems to be a really good shape for me and fits on the larger side. Now that I have a non-padded bra that is really close I would love some more input. Comments?
The band is insanely too tight. All the Wacoal's I have tried on (even 34s) have been too tight. Is that normal for this brand?
Also, how do I handle the different sized breasts? I have seen the idea of inserts/cookies but would like to avoid that if possible. Are there other options? Anyone want to eyeball how much difference it might be? I feel like it is a pretty significant difference.
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Suggestions (4)
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helpfulSuch a disappointment when a bra band measures smaller than expected! I've personally never tried Wacoal, so can't comment if that's common for them. But if there's more measurements on Bratabase you can check it out!
Looking at your ribcage measurements, and your mentioning you don't like a restrictive band, you're probably looking for something that measures closer to your comfortable ribcage (31.5").
Regarding asymmetry; there's a bunch of possible alterations, if you know a seamstress or how to use a needle yourself. Here's some tips: https://bratheory.com/bra-alterations/ - pinning the cups where there's excess fabric (could be done either on top of the cups, along the center seams if it's a seamed bra; or at the bottom of the cups) and then and hand-sewing usually works out, after some possible trial and error.
Either way, first do consider if this bra is worth altering for you - it does look tall to me and a bit big / wide overall ? I'd recommend a cup depth around 8,5" and a cup width around 5" I suppose.
Maybe this would be somewhat similar but fit better: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Playtex-Flower-Elegance-Stretch-Lace-Full-Cup-Bra-P5832-Underwired-Lacy-Lingerie/203287221753?hash=item2f54dcd5f9:g:evAAAOSwmkBfFutR or try Freya, Curvy Kate (they are usually less tall) - I'm guessing your best 'ballpark size' in those brands would be between 32D-34D?
I've also heard people in that size range being pleased with Natori (for example, https://www.bratabase.com/browse/natori/feathers-contour-plunge-bra-730023/34D/) but never tried them myself.
Oh and there's listings on here, if you're looking for an affordable way to narrow down what works!
Good luck!
Updated on March 3, 2021 Flag this
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Thank you so much for the suggestions about alterations (and the link!). Now that I am so much closer and can see smaller differences I see the value in looking into that.
I have tried the Natori Feathers but they are too shallow for me. I did order the Pure Luxe but the cups were too big so I am going to reorder in a small size. It did seem to be a close shape.
Could you expand on what you mean by it being too tall? I feel like it fits well and lays right along the breast tissue (unlike everything else I have tried). I also know that I am learning so many new things. What do you see in it that says: "too tall" ?
Also, your comment about it being too wide. I'm not really sure how to size as far as width. I am seeing what reddit seems to call breast tissue migration where what used to be much flatter and broader seems to be... consolidating? Don't know how to describe it. I do feel like the wire sits where it should on the sides though I can tell that a lot of that side space is changing. Thoughts?
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For sure, I'll try to explain! (: (can imagine the whole process being overwhelming, with all these terms being thrown around)
So firstly; disclaimer - all bra dimensions (tallness, wideness, too-large-or-too-smallness) are partially decided by personal preference / comfort levels of course. You can wear what you like!
But since you're asking:
Visually what I notice in your pictures; is that the top cup edge & the area where the cup meets the straps looks quite high up. It doesn't really cross / encapsulate the breast tissue, but just sits along the chest wall, if that makes sense? I suppose that's in part due to the shape of the bra (more of a full-cup), but it also looks larger than you need. The super tight band hides this problem partially; as the cups are 'spread out / pulled taut' more than they're supposed to. Adding an extender may give you a better view of things.Same with the width; there's no side view picture on your bigger side, but the smaller breast seems 'cupped' by a wire that's quite a bit wider / larger than the breast root. The wire might be pulled sideways / distorted by the tight band of course; hard to tell from a picture.
It's completely fine if a wider wire is comfortable for you, and particularly if you're experiencing tissue migration, it might actually be beneficial ! But just my two cents from looking at the pics.
Btw the tallness is also noticeable in the measurements: your bra's cup height is stated as 8" while in my size (UK32G / US32I / EU 70K) I actually prefer cups lower than that. Doesn't mean you have to feel the same of course.
For example; I myself can't stand it when a bra goes too far into my tail of spence / armpit area. It's just uncomfortable to me.
If it's helpful I'll show you an example of what I (personally) consider a too large; too tall and too wide bra on me: http://bra.pe/X3rt/ (yet to write a review sorry)
In the pictures I'm pointing out / gesturing where the fit is off.
As you can see I've (provisionally) pinned one of the cups to shorten it. On this bra I'd definitely also narrow the strap placement, because of the tallness and wideness. If I really wanted to go to town on it, I'd also swap the wires for narrower ones. And if I were to order from this brand directly (bought this one used, to check my Avocado size), I'd certainly size down!So maybe in comparison you see what I mean?
Good luck figuring things out!
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bubblegum I agree with you that the Halo is a VERY high coverage bra and it is also designed (as far as I can tell) for a completely different body type demographic than OP... namely full-figured, heavy-busted older ladies who have a lot of projection but are looking for a seamless and minimizing style without compromising support. The unseamed, shallow, wide cup is designed to spread the breast tissue wider and higher than it would otherwise sit. The reason it is functionally an ok fit on you, ISOgoodfit, at least on your larger side is that (again as far as I can tell) this shallowish design works with your moderate projection and you have enough breast root height to avoid emptiness at the top of the cup.
However, the band is much tighter than is justifiable on someone with such a lean torso, the straps are closer together than intended and overall it does look like "a lot of bra" for someone who probably feels no particular need for cast-iron containment or minimizing effect. A cup that isn't quite so full coverage would probably make it easier to find a fit compromise that still contains the larger side without a lot of extra fabric on the smaller breast.FWIW in my experience the Wacoal styles that run extra tight in the band are the full-coverage, super-supportive ones designed for the fit demographic I described above... a generation who were already adult consumers before bra sizing started to become severely confusing due to the change in materials used and the normalization of underwires. We are talking about ladies who probably still remember when all bras were nonwired except for specialty eveningwear designs and a 34 band fit a 29" torso to perfection. These consumers are going to strongly resist sizing down in the band especially as they have probably put on some weight over the years. So these Wacoal bras are cut to fit them and provide the support needed.
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helpfulI don’t know if it’s common for the brand, but the band on my Wacoal Retro Chic lace was also insanely tight. Had to use an extender with it. I guess it makes the bra last longer to start it with that crazy tight band?
So I second @jazzypants ’s suggestion about using an extender. I also second the comments about getting the cups as level as you can and as close to the IMF as you can. I have some asymmetry too and I just let it go if the wrinkles don’t show under my top and bra doesn’t give me back pain after a whole day of wear. If I do get back pain, then I try monkeying around with inserts to try to improve the support on the smaller side. Or you could go down a cup and try to split the difference so to speak. Sometimes that works and sometimes it’s a disaster. Kinda just depends on the bra.
I also second @bubblegum’s observations about the cups seeming to tall on you. I have a similar breast base height measure to yours and many many bras are too tall in the cups, and they look like the cups in your picture. When the cups are too tall it makes fitting harder because the deepest part of the cup is not aligned the most projected part of my breast, and it makes the fit on my smaller side look worse than it is. I find a cup height around 7.3 inches works much better for me than when I try to get away with 8 or 9. I’m not an expert at judging if something is too wide or not, but I have noticed that people seem to frequently recommend a cup depth close to the lying down perimeter measurement as a place to start. I also agree about Natori. I looooove the band on my Pure Luxe T-Shirt bra from Natori. The cups are too tall in that but it doesn’t seem to matter as much cause of the foam. This is one where “splitting the difference” worked well for me.
Anyway, I hope you find more things that fit and are comfy. Good luck out there, it’s kind of a jungle
Updated on March 3, 2021 Flag this
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Thank you so much for your feedback. I ordered the Natori Pure Luxe but it was too big. I am ordering again in a smaller size. Hopefully it is a good fit.
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helpfulTo get a better fit in this particular bra and size, an extender will help balance out the short band. It is not even a 30 inch band with your measurement! With that in place, the right cup should be placed horizontally level with your other cup and firmly in the IMF. Of course, if the breast tissue is not level to begin with then that is a different issue. The frontal picture shows the discrepancy in level bra cups and the right profile shows the wire below the IMF. Be sure to check the length of the straps. Once this two things have been handled, then you can use pins, needle, and thread to dart fabric or even shorten the cup height on the right side. Good luck!
Updated on March 3, 2021 Flag this
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I feel like the comment has been made before about not sitting on the IMF and not being even but now that you mention the breast tissue not being even I think you are totally correct. You said that is a "different issue." Are there alternate suggestions if that is the case?
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Given that the right cup wire is lower than the left cup wire on the torso and the right cup wire lower than the right IMF, I would start by reviewing how you put your bra on. It would be easier to place the wires level with that extender, do a good swoop and scoop and check the base of the cups to see if they are level. Shimmy the band and cups level and see what you have. Check the evenness of the straps and make sure that they are not too tight. I know that I had to relearn how to place/put on a bra once I was in the right size.
If there is a size difference and a symmetrical concern, fit the larger, lower breast. Some folks use a foam wedge for the smaller, higher breast, but if the bra is comfortable, most just leave it as is as the difference with clothes on is not usually detectable.
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helpfulTry a 34 D?
Updated on March 2, 2021 Flag this
Ooo, I did not know Curvy Kate and Freya tended to be shorter in the cups. That’s helpful to me! And I am going to check out that alterations link too.