Bra fitting help » Puckering at bottom of cup
Elomi » Charley Underwire Stretch Lace Plunge Bra (4382) » 36J 36:13
Issue resolved
I returned this bra.
Original problem
Wires may be slightly too wide as there is wrinkling on the side. There is also some puckering in the bottom of cup right above the underwire when I manage to get it in my IMF. Gore tacks but seems like it is sitting on breast tissue right at the top.
I am kinda at a loss on what bras to try next. My breasts come very close together about halfway up my chest (mid point when the girls are supported). I can barely fit my pinky in between them at that point. I believe they are splayed, projected, and somewhat bottom full. Average to narrow roots. Maybe tall roots?
The biggest three issues I keep running into are: gore too high/sitting on tissue even in “plunge” styles, wires running too wide/high on the sides, and wrinkling at the bottom of the cups once I have wiggled to get the wire into my IMF.
Trying to ease back into bra life from being in sports bras/bralettes. I’ve been wearing softcup/wireless bras mostly at this point. In these styles I don’t have to worry about the center gore, but I’m still getting better support than I was. I have another fitting help request wearing a Comexim Ginger Cookie plunge in 36JJ (sized up in cups due to Breakout Bras recommendation). I’ve tried many bras in 36J UK at this point, including: Freya Fancies Plunge (gore on tissue), Curvy Kate lifestyle plunge (gore on tissue, wires too wide), Curvy Kate top spot balcony (wires and straps too wide, gore on tissue), Curvy Kate Wonderfull full cup bra (gore on tissue, wires too wide), Goddess Kayla Full Figure underwire (way too wide, gore too wide/high), Elomi Kim and Matilda plunge styles (wires too wide/high on side, gore sits on tissue).
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Suggestions (2)
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helpful
I think I can help you!
I used the ABTF calculator and I also got 36J. We have very similar measurements. But when I tried bras in that size I had ALL the same issues you are having with some of the exact bras that you are trying. I feel your frustration! I posted a help request and Adler613 gave me wonderful advice to try sizing down in the cups. I was so skeptical because I know exactly what you're saying with the gore issues and wires feeling too narrow so I thought I had to keep sizing up in cup. I'm sitting here in a 34H Freya Fancies and I can't believe how those issues are resolved when the cup is much smaller. I ended up going down a band size as well because although my 36 band looked nice and smooth, I feel the 34 is actually snug enough to support my chest.
I would say the way your cups are wrinkling is exactly how my cups look when they are too big. Please look at my many reviews of the Elomi Kim- that can give you an idea of how you may look in the different sizes. I really was amazed at how going down in the cup gave me more room and solved those issues you mentioned. I'd say once you get a better idea of your cup size, you may find those styles actually can work for you.
Updated on March 31, 2021 Flag this
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Hm the wrinkling could be due to projection that's true. I also believe I'm considered to be very projected, my snug underbust is 35" while my leaning bust is 53" (when leaning they look torpedo shaped). I found that with my soft tissue, it's taken a lot of trial and error to see what cup size best fits the volume for my breast shape. So I would still say sizing down could solve your issues.
I've also found that leaning over and aggressively shimmying my breast tissue back and forth to make sure it's all in there (from where it likes to hang out under my arms) helps to fill the cups and fix wrinkling and quadding. Then swooping and scooping, finished by using my thumb to smooth the cup edge. Sounds like overkill but for my breasts it's been extremely effective, when I used to just do the swoop and scoop.
Oh and you could also try the Panache Jasmine because it's got a lot of projection in the cup. I think I was closer to a 36H in that bra. But I've seen it called a diagnostic bra. I found the wires too jabby for me, but a lot of women rave about it.
Also, I have total sympathy for easing into real bras. I've been in saggy wireless nursing bras for a year now and I'm trying to get back in the game as well! :-)
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This is very helpful info, thank you. I just ordered two sizes of the panache Jasmine and will start from there. I’m apprehensive of balconnet styles because I have somewhat narrow shoulders and I find the gore tends to be wide. But I am eager to find something that will fit.
I will continue working to perfect my scooping, swooping, shimmying, etc. I had gotten in the habit of reverse scooping and swooping for such a long time to try and make boob hats “work” as best I could. I do find a good shimmy while bent forward helps get things moved out from under the wires. I think my breast tissue is somewhat soft, but it’s very dense, so it doesn’t take kindly to being told where to go. The girls tend to move bras back to where they want to be, but I’m hopeful the right fit and style will at least be able to adjust the weight to relieve my back without hurting my breast tissue more.
Edited to add:
I feel like I’m probably at least in the right ballpark with my size. I have a 38HH Elomi Charley that’s pretty close to fitting. Same wrinkling in exactly the same spots, but on the tightest hook and with the j hook fastened, it sits just about right everywhere. I think I might try to tighten the band with an alteration.
Thank you for the recommendation! I will have to check out some more sizes, I think. I am still adjusting to wearing a properly sized underwire from wearing boob hat bralettes.
I’m not sure if we’re having the same issue, though. My 36 bands feel correct when I try on for band size only (I can dig around in my older bras for a 34 to try this with). And I just re-tried two NWT 36H from figleaves that I ordered before I found ABTF and measured. The cups on one are comically small to the point that my nipples are trying to escape when I scoop and swoop. The other is wireless but gives me terrible quad boob/cutting pain when I scoop and swoop.
I’ve been wondering if my wrinkling is due to how projected my breasts are? I go from rib cage to extremely full immediately above my IMF.