Bra fitting help » Wires sitting on breast tissue but also too wide in plunge bra
Elomi » Matilda Plunge Bra (8900) » 34J 34:13
Issue resolved
Returning the bra
Original problem
I ordered this bra in a 34J because the Elomi Charley sizes that I’ve tried (38HH, 36J, 36HH) have been a bit loose in the band and too wide in the cup (although the 36HH also caused quadding).
This bra seems like a closer fit, but there are issues. The gore is sitting on breast tissue for about the top inch or so. I uploaded pictures of the marks (not sure if/when they’ll be approved). You can also see from the marks that the wire is about the right width at the bottom of the side, but goes up much wider/higher at the top. In any case, the fabric comes up so high that it’s basically in my armpit/rubbing my arm when I’m in a tank top. I do find that I need the straps fastened with the J hook to feel supported and like the straps won’t slip down.
It shows the hooks cross hooked in the pictures, but I tried it on the loosest hook for all three today before taking the pics of the marks.
My question is: where do I go from here? Should I keep trying Elomi (easy to get free shipping. This bra seems to have kinda the right amount of projection.) or give up because they are made for a different shape? Part of my searching for new bras is because of pain in my breasts, so I don’t want to make it worse with underwires squishing them.
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So to me it kind of looks like this bra is made for a larger frame / taller build / lower set breasts? What is your height if I may ask?
Your tissue is nicely encapsulated, and this bra's projection seems relatively decent, but yes the wires go beyond your root and the cups are so tall on you! Is it uncomfortable too, or can you tolerate the amount of fabric going up next to your arms / tail of spence?
To be honest I'd ditch Elomi, if this is the best it gets for you size-wise (sitting on tissue / discomfort). I'd venture into Polish bras - for more projection and less full coverage, or other UK brands that may suit your frame better (for example, Curvy Kate usually has lower cups).
Amazon offers some Gorsenia -Polish brand that runs pretty deep-, Brastop has many options (UK brands like Curvy Kate, Pour Moi, and some Polish like Nessa, Gorsenia, Kris Line) https://us.brastop.com/pages/search-results?q=34j
ASOS also does some fuller bust bras from various brands but I sometimes struggle with their size conversion (label not matching their chart etc.)
Good luck!
Updated on April 10, 2021 Flag this
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Yes, a short torso will definitely cause issues with bra height!
And I can relate, even though I'm a different size range (and if anything, have a long-ish torso - also never considered myself narrow-shouldered) I still struggle with wide-set straps / too much bra in my tail of spence / armpit area.. Sometimes I wonder WHO actually benefits from some bra construction choices, haha.
Curious about your DIY alterations, let us know how that goes!
And I suppose Comexim custom order / alterations could really help you out in the future. With moved in straps, somewhat lowered cups & gore, and added projection?
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I've had similar problems with finding bras that accommodate a short torso and fuller breasts without wires poking me in the wrong places. (I'm 5'1", 36G.) I had bad luck with Elomi, Freya, Fantasie and Panache. I've had good luck with Primadonna (Madison and Deauville) as well as Empreinte (half cup styles). Those might be worth checking out.
Thanks so much for the advice! The gore resting on tissue is probably my biggest concern, but how high it rides in the armpits is also not great. I feel like I could alter it if everything else fit beautifully, but that’s not the case. This bra is probably made for someone with a much longer torso. I am 5’4”, but my ribs aren’t far above my hips if that makes sense. Most of my height is in my legs.
I have tried a few Comexim bras at this point. I think I’m going to keep one I received the other days and attempt to alter it to fit (move straps in and take out a bit of the cup in my armpit).
I think my biggest struggle right now is trying to find a combination of projection, close and low gore, and narrow wires. It seems like I can get one or two (projection and narrow wires but gore is high because it’s a balconnet) but not everything. I am thinking I might end up having to order them custom or alter them to move the straps in. I never thought of myself as having narrow shoulders, but I guess I must if everyone else loves balconnet styles?
I will check out brastop again and maybe ASOS. I just keep worrying about return shipping and throwing good money after bad with buying all these bras just to return them. Le sigh.