Bra fitting help » Gore not quite tacking, wrinkling at bottom and side of cups.
Ewa Michalak » Bm Heaven » 75GG 34:10
Issue resolved
Will try same cut in larger cup size.
Original problem
I’m 32GG, FOB, centre full, projected, short and narrow roots, close set(?).
The gore tacks at the bottom but not quite at the top. I think it may be due to the gore height? I have a plunge in another brand and that one tacks fine. I think I might be too centre full for the gore height. Will this non-tack be an issue?
My breasts feel like they might fall out the middle after a few hours. There’s also a weird flat spot just above the top of the gore where the cup meets tissue. I feel like the lace is just too stretchy to hold my breasts apart properly. Is there any way I can fix this?
There is also some wrinkling at the bottom and side of the cups. I’m not sure what’s causing this. The wire seems to be <1cm below my IMF, but I get the feeling that if I wear the bra all day I’ll have to adjust it. Can I fix the wrinkling?
I can link more pics if necessary.
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Suggestions (3)
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Such_A_Pretty_Bra!
I feel like you answered a lot of your own questions, lol. This just might not be the style for you, because the gore may be too high, and you may need to stick to Ewa Michalak plunge bras, like the PL or new PLM (I think it's called) because of the closeness of your tissue.
It's my understanding that wrinkling at the bottom means - not enough immediate projection. (or does it sometimes mean it's too small?? thinking aloud to myself) because I have sometimes solved this by going up a cup. However, if you go up one cup, I'm thinking it might be too big for you?
Test: when you press to gore to your sternum, do you "quad boob" out of the bra (like overflow out of it) is the fit in the cups still okay?
If you quad boob out, you could try going up a cup.
Gore not tacking could mean too small in the cups.
Hope that helps!
Updated on January 17, 2022 Flag this
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Thank you for your input! I think I’m mostly looking for someone to confirm that I’m right, which you did. When I tack the gore it sits on breast tissue unless I separate them first. It also creates more obvious quadboob—I think that’s the “flat” spot that I mentioned earlier lol. It’s just masked by the stretch lace.
You have good points about the gore, cup sizes, and new styles to try, thanks.
Are you familiar with Comexim at all? I find them very confusing. I was thinking the 3HC might work for me, does that sound about right?
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I'm familiar with Comexim but I haven't tried all of their styles; if you're in the US or Canada, it's probably easiest to order them through Breakout Bras, I did an explanation post here https://www.reddit.com/r/PolishBras/comments/qhuwyr/how_to_purchase_comexim_from_breakout_bras_for/ and use the conversion app https://comeximcalc.herokuapp.com/ is probably a good place to start, although I personally sister-size up in Comexim bands, because I find them firm, but YMMV.
I'm loving wearing their unpadded 3HC style, this one https://www.bratabase.com/bra/dnhuv/ but it currently isn't sold through Breakout Bras anymore. It's my understanding that their unpadded 3HCs have the most immediate projection at the wire. Another style that works for me is their padded plunges, but they're probably not the most immediately projected bras.
I've not tried their padded 3HC yet (except for as a Longline bra, it was too shallow for my shape : ( https://www.bratabase.com/bra/dnhzl/) because I didn't think they would work for me. Again, if you're in the US or Canada, you can try them on, return them or exchange them through Breakout Bras, so that's a great resource. https://www.breakoutbras.com/collections/comexim
Hope that helps! : )
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Thank you so much you’re amazing!
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What I am wondering is if the cups are too small so the band/cup width is stretching out too far to try and accommodate the breast tissue. This results in the wide wire position and the lack of depth at the wire in the front. When you look at your breasts from the front it is like the breast is pulled out to the side with the center mass of the breast tissue in front of the bra strap on your shoulder when it should be more in line with the peripheral edge of your neck (to give easier anatomical position points!)
You may also want to remeasure your rib cage measurements and the bra "stretched band" measurement. Watch to see if the cup width is affected. Also watch what happens to the configuration of the bra cup material when the cup width is stretched. It affects how your breast tissue is going to settle into what is available.
Good luck in figuring out bra construction and what works for your shape!
Updated on January 19, 2022 Flag this
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I think you might prefer another Ewa style. Comexim 3HC could be worth a shot, although I personally get a better tack from Ewa than Comexim because of the different wires they use.
Updated on January 25, 2022 Flag this
Even if the cups are better one cup up, the gore could be bigger/wider one cup size up as well...so, it's possible this isn't the right style for you.
Unfortunately, Ewa Michalak doesn't alter bra (like alter the gore) like Comexim does.