Bra fitting help » Painful underwire from tilted gore, unsure if too small or too big.
Ewa Michalak » Pl Czarny Triumf » 85J 38:13
The gore is not tacking, and my bust is pushing the gore forward, but instead of it floating, it just digs in to my sternum.
I thought maybe the band was too small, but if I try it upside down and backwards it's not painfully tight. It's firm, but not uncomfortably so.
This bra is way more supportive than my Elomis, it actually gives me a shape that isn't dumpy.
Asking on reddit, I got told to size up and down and to stay in the same size, but I don't know. I hope I have more luck here with added pictures.
Here are photos of Elomi Matilda in 38HH. https://www.bratabase.com/bra/dnrsc/pictures/
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Suggestions (2)
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helpfulYou could try going down a band size, but honestly to me this looks like it just might be too small in the cups. The gore could be floating away because your boobs are pushing the cups out. The band feeling too tight when worn normally is another sign that the cups might be too small or not deep enough, especially if it feels fine when worn upside down. These bras are sometimes tricky to get the right size/fit! I’ve still never figured out what size or style I need for Ewa Michalak padded bras.
Updated on November 4, 2023 Flag this
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Could you update us with a phot of what the is bra looks like from the back. Because maybe you don’t feel like it is tight but it actually is and causing the wires to distort. I have a friend who likes her bands super tight but I have to remind her if it’s too tight and causes the wires to distort then the bra fit will be affected. Or better yet what is your snug under bust measurement, if you haven’t taken a more recent one could you do that and update us.
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Loxus I've added back and side pictures. My underbust measurements are the same.
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The tension on the band doesn’t look like it’s distributed properly and a good sign of that is the band is riding up just a bit (looks like the top half of the band is looser than the bottom half), but the band looks like it is the right size. The wire looks great to me. And I don’t see quaffing when you raised your arm, but that just might be the angle. Maybe you do need to try either a cup up or a cup with a lower horizontal seam (brings the deepest part of the cup lower) or both together. Here is a post that talks about uneven bra tension: http://widecurves.com/its-your-bra-band-tension/ . It can help make a bra more supportive (and maybe you can go up a size in the band and fix the tension to fix the support because the bottom of the band looks a little tight, but just to my eye, you might feel different about it). I’m thinking a bra more in this cut will be better for you: https://www.ewa-michalak.pl/product-eng-1800-Bra-SMN-Fetysz-Latte.html
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Loxus I think the band on the EM is tighter on the bottom, as when I try it upside down the bottom is still tighter, but I've read about some inconsistency in EM bras, so I don't really mind. I have a lot of squish, so I need it to be tight, it'll ride up more otherwise. You said on your other comment you wanted to see one of the Elomi bras, I have the album here: https://www.bratabase.com/bra/dnrsc/pictures/ Maybe the band tension still persists, but that's a new term for me, so I don't know how to spot it.
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helpfulI wanna say since you have short roots, and the horizontal seam on the bra ends pretty high near the armpit, the part of the cup with the most depth is higher in the cup. So that might be why you are popping out the top. And the wire looks like it is being distorted/pulled all the way into your armpit also making your boobs spill out the top front. The band might be too tight depending on if the seam on the wing is distorted or not. The cup height looks good.
And these articles might help regarding why you might be spilling out the top:https://hugsforyourjugs.blogspot.com/2017/04/bra-science-16-signs-youre-wearing.html?m=1
https://www.bratabase.com/albums/77o/I also have short roots that are forward facing and the Playful Promises Walpole bra fits the best for me because of the shorter horizontal seam. If you look at the bra you will see that the horizontal seam starts mid-center gore and ends (underneath the armpit) mid-wire. This will make the deepest part of the cup lower to accommodate shorter roots. And also has good immediate projection at the wire. The vertical seam on your Ewa ends much higher near your armpit, this making the deepest part of the bra higher up in the cup.
Walpole: if you look at the model she also has short roots and the cup seems to fit her pretty well and has good immediate projection.
https://us.playfulpromises.com/products/felicity-hayward-walpole-purple-embroidered-strappy-balconette-braThe Regent Green also worked pretty well for me though the cups are just a tad taller because of the little tapered end where the straps meet the cup:
https://us.playfulpromises.com/products/felicity-hayward-regent-green-mesh-harness-balcony-braI don’t know if you want to give the Walpole a try in 38H, 38I, and 38J US.
Updated on November 4, 2023 Flag this
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H I and J US are DEFINITELY too small. I get calculated as 38KK UK by ABTF, and wear 38HH and J, but I suspect those are a little small. I have a Panache Ana in 38GG, so 38J US equivalent, and it does not fit in any sense of the word. Besides, I don't really have a short root, I just have a higher root.
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Okay makes sense. But I’m thinking that even if you have a higher root that makes you functionally short rooted in a sense because you are higher set. So I think my advice still applies, just not about size. Have you tried brands like Curvy Kate, Scantilly, Sculptress by Panache (try Chi Chi), or Flirtelle? Most can be found on Brastop.
Also can you post photos of how the Elomis fit you so I can better get an idea of fit issues seeing a bra that fits a completely different shape than Ewa.
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If I’m reading this correctly and you’re a 38KK UK, a 38J US is like 6-7 cup sizes too small. Your US size according to the ABTF calculator would be a 38P US/38KK UK. Ewa Michalak uses a hybrid sizing system, but even still, a 38J is 3 cup sizes smaller than what your calculated size is. Typically with the padded EM bras, it’s suggested to go up 1-2 sizes.
ETA: I just looked at your pictures in the 38HH Elomi Matilda and it’s definitely a decent looking fit. I’d suggested maybe redoing your ABTF calculator. There’s a chance it could be overestimating your cup size as well.
As for the EM plunge, I’m still leaning that it’s either a size or two too small or just not the right shape for you. When I wore a 34HH/J UK and tried an 80HH EM plunge, it fit very similarly on me and was probably at least 1 cup size too small. Link for reference: http://bra.pe/X4Rj/
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pretty_promise ABTF definitely overestimates me, I have soft tissue and a larger band, both not the best for the calculator. My overbust is 136 standing and 139 leaning, 134 lying. My underbust measurements are harder to get because I can't really see the measuring tape but I usually get a 38 band. 38KK comes out of it. Elomi Matilda does run large though, at least from what I can tell. The cups are bigger than the EM by a good bit.
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In Elomi Matilda I get in cup quadding and this weird vertical boob effect at the top, and that one is 38HH. But since the gore tacks, albeit to my breast tissue (It's too high and too seperate) and the wires are wide on me, I'm told I should size down instead. But when I do the upside band test on that one, it doesn't feel tight at all, when it does with the cups. Sizing up when I was at a smaller size was not a good idea, so I guess I'm just scared of getting it wrong again.