Calenlass

My shape: tall shallow-root teardrop with wide Nike-swoosh side roots, lots of side fullness, forward-facing, center-height, very close-set, and with very firm tissue that doesn't get on well with any bra that won't give me enough immediate depth at the wire.

This review is for the black colorway, although I'm assessing it as it fits now, even though I got it almost a year ago and just somehow forgot to do one.

I remember trying on my first Chantelle, the 70F - Chantelle » Rive Gauche 3 Part Cup (3281) , several years ago now, and while I know a lot more about how bras are supposed to ... fit, and I look for so many different things than I used to, there is no change here: Chantelle's gores hurt. At least on me, they do. To be fair, I've only tried on a handful, and one of them was really a plunge style so it's exempt from this, but so far the rest of them SUCK. The wires are too tall, the wires are very firm, the cups are too far apart, the gore itself is too wide, and no matter what I do, I can't get away from it. I think I'm going to wait awhile before trying another Chantelle again in favor of other brands I've had better luck with. Hopefully the next experience will be better.

I overlooked the stabby gore because it wasn't nearly as bad as the Rive Gauche had been on me (which I guess set my watermark!), and I needed a plain black bra, since I didn't own one. The band fit well, although I remember quickly moving hooks, and now I can pull it away a bit. I suspect I have also lost a bit of weight in between then and now, since I've been happy in mostly 28 bands, which could also be it.

I also got it because I like molded cups. They aren't the best for being able to judge fit, but scratchy nipple seams are my arch-enemies, and one-piece cups are almost always super comfy on me, in spite of inevitably being the wrong shape. On the other hand, like every other moulded-cup bra I've tried, they are too shallow for me at the wire, so the bra scooches down to find more space. The top cup edge also causes a teensy bit of faux-quadboob on my super shallow upper roots, but it's not something I feel while wearing it.

Having firm tissue means that, for the most part, I don't notice when cups are a little too narrow, like these are, and I would likely have gone on not noticing if not for having to adjust it a lot during the day now. I also notice when it shifts down because the wing is already slightly short for my preference, and when it's even lower the wire digs in there, too. 3 hooks on the band is nice, though! Unfortunately, the stretch lace makes it prone to The Bra Bulge, just like powernet, so it never really fit me smoothly even when it was new.

The straps are good and adjust long enough for me, and I like the stitching detail on the split front.
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black colorway

Updated on Jul 21, 2017 Flag this

My shape: centered mid-height teardrop with super tall roots, super wide roots, super close center tissue, allover [even] fullness (slightly on the FOB side), and firm tissue that doesn't like to be pushed around.

This review is for the Blush/Floral colorway. It is a sweet baby-pink rose print with a sheer stretch upper panel embroidered with more satin-stitched roses in varying shades of pink. Very pretty!

I suspect that this bra would work a little better for someone with shorter roots and/or more FOB than I am, because on me the top half of the cups wrinkle something awful, and it is totally noticeable under thin tops. It doesn't gape ... at all because the actual edge of the cup is flush and actually lays smooth without cutting in, but if I were to size down to nix the extra embroidered mesh (which is a little shimmery, I might add, and I really like it), the edge would totally cut into my tall roots - hence, I think it would work for shorter-rooted ladies. The bottom of the cup is also too shallow for me, as evidenced by the different sort of tension-wrinkles along the seam shown in the photos. It almost looks like the solid-fabric part would be enough of a cup on its own (for me), but upon closer examination, at the seam it also wrinkles a little and would gape. I wonder if the apex might be too high for me, too, but can't be sure because as far as I know I've never had that problem before.

The most irritating thing about the cups is actually that the armpit-edge [between strap and side seam] of the cups is very straight and VERY high in my armpit. I can't say that the straps are placed too far apart because they attach to the cup quite high up on my chest, so its definitely the cut of the cup piece. There's elastic there, but it has almost no stretch at all. I was going to see if adjusting the straps shorter would change anything about the cup fit, only to find that there was no play there - so all the adjustment is in the back length, if that matters to anyone. Perhaps there's some fit issue I usually manage to solve by tightening my straps a bit, like a gaping neckline, but regardless, this one obviously doesn't fit well and also won't shift that way.

My fullness seems to be accommodated pretty well at the wing and at the center gore, which is great! The wires are also a great shape and wide enough, although the outside edge curve is too steep for my Nike-swoosh roots and the end of the wire channel rests on top of them - the same old song and dance for me. I am conscious of them around the outside curve of my breast, though, which is unusual - most of the time I forget I'm wearing a bra, or at least don't notice the little things, so that might mean that the wires are just a hair too narrow for all my sideboob, or that the seam is just very scratchy! The wires are also too tall at the center gore and not quite high enough under my arms; I tried pushing them along the wire channel, because there is extra space, but without placing a stitch there they won't stay.

The gore is too wide and very much too tall for me, so the wires resting at the tops of their channels there rubbed some welts in the 20 minutes I was assessing it that would eventually become raw spots or blisters, I suspect. Definitely not for me.

Also not for me: the band or the itchy fabric. I could ignore both, but I think a 28 band would help with some of the gore-stabbing, and that whole riding-up-on-the-tightest-hooks thing. The fabric might soften up after the first wash, but I won't be keeping it long enough to find out.
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Blush/Floral colorway

This bra is not owned any more

Updated on Jun 06, 2016 Flag this

My shape: FOB teardrop with lots of upper fullness and shallowness that makes me functionally even allover, loads of immediate projection but only moderate overall projection, mid-height, center-set, with a small conical ribcage and super wide roots (on me, anyway), and very firm tissue that fights back when pushed around by padding.

This review is for the Rouge colorway.

I found this listed on reddit as a NWOT steal, and while I really wanted the biscuit colorway, I jumped on it. It's beautiful! I'm so glad I did, because it's a great fit on par with my 30F - Fauve » Pearl Padded Half Cup Bra (0221) ... and my 30F - Fauve » Marla Padded Half Cup Bra (0291) , but less open at the neckline.

This bra is kind of shallow in the bottom of the cups, but Fauve Magic means it doesn't matter on me, and I get a gorgeous rounded shape out of it instead. It is a little more minimized than I might want, but overall it's so comfy I don't care. I think it's also a little shallow right around the gore, but aside from a tiny bit of quadding when I stick my chest out, it's otherwise not noticeable.

The wires are lovely and feel like the perfect width on me. After checking with my fingers and wriggling around, they might be slightly wider than my Fauve Pearl, so the side fullness is a little more spread out in the side of the cup.

The straps are embellished! I love that sort of thing. They are wide and comfy and adjust plenty long for me.

I started out on the tightest hook, so the hooks are going to have to move. I'm pleased that it's so tight, because as I move into usually-28 territory, all my Fauves are starting to be too loose even on the tightest set. The top edge along the wings also rests flush against my underarm, which means that either the elastic is tight enough or the band is conically-cut enough for my silly ribcage.

Now I definitely need the other 3 colorways, if I can find them. Hooray!
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Rouge colorway

Updated on Jul 01, 2016 Flag this

My shape: slightly shallow teardrop/FOB with super wide/tall roots and very close-set tissue in the middle.

This review is for the Spice colorway.


After having noticed that almost all of my bras have wires that are too narrow for my boobs, and having coveted this adorable bra for a long time, I found it on clearance and decided to buy it. I probably should have gotten a 30FF, but that was sold out, and so I took a chance on the sister size. The cups are still not quite the right shape for me under my arms (it seems I need some flatter pointing-toward-my-shoulder-blades shaped wires instead of the standard ... round ones), but they encase all the tissue better than any of my other bras and are definitely wide enough, which makes them the best fitting wires I own.

Having the band one size up means that I don't think the lace around the bottom of the band flips up as much as it would otherwise, which is nice, although over the course of the day (which was admittedly more active than any other normal day on which I would have worn this bra) I still found myself having to adjust a lot. It feels pretty snug, and the boning definitely keeps it in place, but I can pull it away from my back way more than 2 fingers' worth. I may try to alter it as it stretches. Also, after a day of inadvertent heavy lifting, sweating, and generally working harder than I meant to, the bottom ends of the boning started to chafe a teensy bit and itch, but I do not intend to put this bra through the ringer again. It seemed to shift down to sit slightly too low on my ribcage after about 6 hours, too, but I'm not sure if that was the workout or the 32 size band at fault.

Looking at the photos makes me realize that the band in back seems to sit higher than the rest of my bras, making it look too tight at the top and giving me a bit of a muffin top. Hooking it on the tighter set makes the pooching worse and doesn't bring it down any farther, so I'm not really sure what to do about that.

I always have trouble with center gores, and not because the wires dig into my sternum, but because my breast tissue is so close in the center that the wires simply sit on top of it. For this reason I have always had to love balcony and half-cup bras from afar. This was true at first for this bra, but to my surprise it was not only better than any other I've tried, but it also didn't bother me. At all. And I am a sensitive, fussy lady about my clothes! I don't understand it, but it makes me love this bra so much more. Seriously! It comes up so high, and I didn't care! So good.

It's super supportive, too! Considering how open it is on top, it held me up throughout the day and was a great shape and the light padding is very natural. (Plus, squishable cups are great for not worrying about when traveling, which I do a lot). This is the only bra I have ever worn that I know for sure doesn't cut into my super-tall breast roots at all, while still having a short enough cup to not gape on the top and a tall enough cup to cover me. (In most cases the cup is too short and my nipples pop over the top because my boobies are shallow and so tall, especially with padded balconettes.)

Orange is a color I didn't think to find in a bra, but I love brights and this one is just so adorable. I have been sad ever since they discontinued it because it's so good, and I don't think the color, satin fabric, or details make it look cheap at all. True, I would be happier if the lace on the front of the band or the straps extended past the side seams, but you can't have everything, and it is my new favorite. A++
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Updated on Oct 11, 2014 Flag this

My shape: slightly shallow teardrop/FOB with super wide/tall roots and very close-set tissue in the middle

This review is for the Nude colorway.

The Search for a Strapless Bra, Part II: Electric Boogaloo

First of all, I would like to say that this bra is much prettier than I was expecting. The nude fabric actually shimmers! It's quite light, though; I got it to replace my 30FF - Panache » Porcelain Moulded Strapless (3370) , which is a bit paler with a tinge of pink and probably matches my skintone better, but even with the yellower undertone this comes pretty damn close. It's also super lightweight, which I was ... not expecting, but it is a pleasant surprise. I was also not expecting a longline, but at 5 hooks (5!) I don't know what else to call it. I have been looking for a super-plunge longline strapless for YEARS, and I am so glad to have found it by accident!

It definitely runs tight. If you are between sizes, you might want to size up (at least in the smaller bands; not sure how the model scales). With the Panache Porcelain I noticed it migrating a bit over the course of an evening, but nothing out of the ordinary. I had hoped that with a "tighter" 30 I might alleviate the problem altogether, but it's so tight it's literally squeezing itself down off my ribcage.

I do think my rather firm breast tissue is probably not helping much, too, especially because of the ENORMOUS non-removable pushup pads in the cups. Ego boost? They weren't kidding! My boobies do not like to be pushed around and usually push back, and in this case they team up with the too-tight band and push the bra almost down to my waist. I think an extender is in order!

I would like to thank whoever said to size up in the cup, because they were also very right. I may do better with a 30GG, but since that cup size would require sizing up and I WANT a tight band, I'm not sure I'm willing to exchange.

Also, the straps are SUPER LONG. They are padded for comfort, which I like, but it makes them very difficult to adjust. Definitely check length BEFORE you get the bra all the way on, because they are a huge pain to move when wearing.

The cups are set at a much better angle for me than the Panache, though, and they don't cut in on top much when the bra sits in its proper place. They are definitely much taller and a little shallower and more vertical on top, which is lovely! (I think I will always have a bit of the false quad-boob with anything strapless, though, on account of how high my roots go. My mom and sister also have this problem.) Plus, aside from how much distortion there is from the pushup pads, I think there might actually be the right amount of bottom projection for me.

I am quite pleased with my investment. I really hope the extender works! Definitely going to record the results.

Update: The extender works nicely, and I only need about one set of hook's worth of breathing room. Of course, as soon as I washed the bra, I misplaced the extender, and I have to find it before I can wear it again...
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Updated on Dec 10, 2015 Flag this

My shape: self-supporting teardrop with tall shallow roots, wide full side roots, center-height, forward-facing, very close-set, with very firm tissue that pushes back when there's not enough immediate projection

I got this from a reddit user last week. It's a beautiful turquoise color with embroidered lace overlay and an eyelash finish instead of a separate lace trim around the top edge of the cup. As a two-part half-cup style, it fits a little differently than the 3-part ones that are more common, but it seems to suit me pretty well! I get the ever-elusive Cakes-on-a-Plate look from this when I first swoop and scoop, and I think in the ... right size it would be magic.

I love the way these cups fit, even though they're a size too small. The apex is spot on, the immediate projection is almost perfect (if not actually perfect - the wire doesn't creep out of my IMF!), they are a great height for low-cut tops, and they are super open on top. FOT ladies, if you can get your hands on this one, do it! I do quad a little when I first swoop-and-scoop, and I have a bit of tissue on my Super Side Boob that tries to escape because I need a 30FF, but it's ok. I think I could still pull it off on my less-full days.

The wires are great, and they are almost even the right shape curve for me! There is a little room in the channel to slide them around, which helps with the fact that the wings are just a hair shorter than I'd ideally prefer, and also with the gore which is already mostly unnoticeable (and that's saying something). They are a little firm, but not painfully so for this size range.

The straps are beautifully covered on the front half in the same eyelash lace as the cups. They are only half-adjustable, but that is fine for me. They are set rather far out on the cups, but I was surprised that it didn't really bother me - Freya's tendency to put them in my armpits drives me crazy, but not so with these. Instead, it just leaves the neckline very open.

I wish I wish I wish the band were not too big. I started with it on the tightest of the 3 sets of hooks, and I can still tell when it starts to shift. If it were wider, and had say 3 hooks in each column instead of 2, it might be doable, but as it is, I'll have to take it in or get a 28. It's not especially stretchy and pretty firm, though, which I like.

I am going to get me another Maia, even if I have to scour the whole internet to find it!
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turquoise blue colorway

Updated on Jul 24, 2017 Flag this

My shape: projected teardrop that is neither high or low set, with very tall and wide roots, close-set center tissue, and very firm tissue that fights back when pushed around by padding.

Bought this bra from a user on r/abtf as a possible option to wear under my wedding dress. This review is for the white colorway.

Part 3 of the Search for the Perfect Strapless saga:

I think this is a pretty decent strapless bra. I haven't worn it for any significant length of time, but it doesn't seem to want to ride down much, and that's pretty good considering it's on the loosest set of hooks and I usually ... need a 28 in Freyas. I would attribute this to its longline construction, I think, because I similarly wear 30s in Fauve but have two longlines that are 32s.

The cups are ok, but like most Freya molded cups, they are too narrow for me. Unlike most, however, this time the narrowness seems to be causing some issues, namely how the outer top edge of the cup is tall and seems to want to fold under at the front of my armpit (I lift heavy things for a living, so my "armpit roll" is more like the end of my pectoral muscle and is probably more to tango with than a regular roll). The immediate projection is alright at the bottom of the cup, I think, but it's hard to tell with the stiff cup. It is definitely too projected on top, however, and gives me a cut-off pseudo-quad boob 50s bullet bra look, just like every other strapless bra I've ever tried; it is less noticeable when I slouch, but I'm not going to schlep around just for a bra! I'm not sure sizing up in the cup would help, either, and might just make it gap and roll more along the top edge. It is much better than my 30G - Gossard » Egoboost Strapless Bra (6288) , though, so I might replace it with this one until I find a better one.

The band is pretty comfy, though! I love longlines, though, so take that into consideration. In spite of the cups in my armpit, the wings are actually not that high. The bottom edge of the band doesn't seem to ride up, and I've tried it on three times, all on "fat" days within the last week.

The center gore is great too. All bras with wide enough wires for me have tall gores, and while some are less annoying than others, you can't really get a half-cup/balconnet style with the true plunge my boobies need, so this is a nice change. Plus, you get some nice cleavage and a lovely rounded shape.

I honestly don't know how the straps are. I had them on for about two minutes before removing them, and I wouldn't ever bother to wear this bra with straps anyway - I have plenty of other longlines for that. They are fully adjustable, for what it's worth. Update: I did not notice at all until I started taking pictures, but each place the straps can hook has TWO loops, so that's pretty awesome! Very customizable.

Alas, the search for my perfect strapless continues!
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white colorway

Updated on Dec 10, 2015 Flag this

My shape: slightly shallow teardrop/FOB with super wide/tall roots and very close-set tissue in the middle.

This review is for the purple orchid colorway.


This is a beautiful bra, and probably the closest I will ever get to a full-coverage dealy. It's super comfortable, and since I got it to be full-coverage (i.e. worn under tops where it wouldn't show anyway), I went ahead and got the bright purple, which is gorgeous, by the way. It has 3 sets of hooks!

The band is pretty stretchy and will probably relax some in the next few months, but I have noticed that Natori has stretchy bands in general, and it's ... nowhere near as bad as the Natori Hidden Glamour Full Fit Contour Bra (736044) or the Natori Feathers Contour Plunge (730023) . The cup is pretty wide, but like the rest of my Natoris, not quite wide enough for me, although I only notice it in the pictures and it's perfectly comfy when worn.

These cups are almost exactly my shape! It's nice because they don't cut in on top but they also don't gape, which is a very tricky balance to strike for me. There is a slight bit of empty space in the bottom, but the wires are so flexible they don't shift much.

Overall: Incredibly pleased with this bra, and really glad now that I caved and got it.

I got the matching shorts too, since they were on sale. Super cute, super soft, and gloriously PURPLE!
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Updated on Jun 06, 2016 Flag this

My shape: slightly shallow teardrop/FOB with super wide/tall roots and very close-set tissue in the middle

This review is for the darker Nude colorway.


I won this bra as part of an underwear set in a blog contest and was thrilled because it was the first bra I was going to get that fit me properly. Well, after I exchanged it for the right size, because as it turns out, it didn't actually run small in the band OR the cups... but now I can't say enough nice things about the customer service at Affinitas, who were super helpful, very accommodating, and fast! Nicest people ever.

Ok, back to the bra: ... The nude color is not actually nude on someone as pale as I am (or really anyone who hasn't been tanning for a few months...), but that isn't really noticeable under clothes. On the other hand, it's very pretty for a t-shirt bra. I only wish I could have gotten another one in the blue colorway when it was still available.

The cups are very stiff. This is good for a lot of people, and fine for me most of the time, although they do gap a little when I let my shoulders fall forward. They give a lovely rounded shape, though, and it's like wearing boob armor.

My only issues with this bra are the wires, which are too narrow for me, and the angle the cups are cut in on the outer top edge. The straps are rather far apart, so this probably is part of the issue, but it really is the shape of the cup. It cuts into the soft tissue around my underarm and shoulder if I don't keep my shoulders pulled back in perfect posture all the time. I mean, it's great motivation to stand up straight, but it still hurts after a little while. I am hoping this will resolve itself at least a little after another wash or two.

All in all, a great bra. I am really glad I own it, and the strap thing won't stop me from wearing it as much as I can.

6 month Update: This bra actually shows through a lot of my thinner shirts now, for more reasons than just the dark color: the top of the cups has curled out and now there is an inescapable ridge that can only be hidden by decoration or a neckline, or perhaps a thick woven fabric. On the plus side, it no longer cuts in under my arms as much, and it is still as armor-y as ever. It also doesn't appear to have stretched at all, but I have lost some weight or gained some muscle or something and now it is pretty obviously too loose on me. I'd sell it because it's still in great shape, but I don't think anyone would want it because of the ridge on the cups. Le sigh.
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Updated on Jun 17, 2015 Flag this

My shape: mid-height front-facing teardrop-profile (ski jump with no "jump") with tall shallow roots, low apex, lots of immediate projection underneath but moderate overall projection, wide roots with lots of side fullness and shallow tails that wrap all the way to the shoulder blade, extremely close-set center tissue (possibly a trace of natural symmastia), and very firm self-supporting tissue that when pushed out of shape will push right back.

This bra was one of 5 Panache Jasmines I bought to try from Nordstrom. I also tried a 30FF in nude, a 30F - Panache » Jasmine Balconnet Bra (6951) in nude, a 30F in black, and ... a 30FF - Panache » Jasmine Balconnet Bra (6951) in navy houndstooth.

The good:

30 band on the loosest hook fits great (snug 72/BTT 66.5 cm today). Wings are tall and wires are wide enough, keeping my root tails snug, although they might be too high for very-sensitive people. The gore is also an unusual shape and flares out a lot toward the bottom, mirroring my own IMF surprisingly closely. The cups seem slightly smaller than the nude version in this size.

The bad:

The gore, in spite of its convenient shape, is tall and stabby. The straps are way too far apart and cut in, and they aren't even wide enough to be pleasant and comfy to make up for it. The cups are ALL wrong, too, with too much overall projection, not enough immediate projection at the base of the cup or the gore, too high at the apex, and the top panel is too roomy and closes too soon. I can't tell if they're a size to large or not.

Nope.
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black colorway

This bra is not owned any more

Updated on Mar 18, 2018 Flag this